My check engine light is on
and the car (2001 Honda Civic/54,000 miles) is intermittently sputtering or jolting. I took it to the dealer, because I had to replace the airbag, and they told me this:
Engine code P1519. They recommended that I update the computer, which they did, and I drove it off. They also said that if the problem reoccured, I would have to replace the PCM (computer); to the tune of about $1,000.
Well, guess what? It reoccurred. The next morning I drove it about 10 miles. At first the the light came on and the sputtering occured. Then the light went off and it was fine. Arrgggh! I hate intermittent shit and also electrical problems!
I shouldn't have to replace the computer at less than 55,000 miles, should I? Do I have any other options?
Put a piece of black electrical tape over the "check engine" light. It will eventually burn out on its own.
Engine code P1519. They recommended that I update the computer, which they did, and I drove it off. They also said that if the problem reoccured, I would have to replace the PCM (computer); to the tune of about $1,000.
At what point does he read the manual? DTC 1519 reports a Idle Air Control Valve Circuit Failure. How curious. That is also what your sputtering engine is doing. If the valve is stuck open, then too much air is leaking into the intake.
The valve is controlled by coolant. A cold engine must run faster. When the engine gets warm, then the valve must close so that the engine idles at a slower speed.
So what did he do? Updating a computer is equivalent to the computer tech who constantly updates the BIOS. He does it because it is easy, does not require thinking through a problem, and actually does nothing. It is called shotgunning. Just keep replacing things until something works. Replace the easy things so that thinking need not be done.
Intermittently sputtering especially at the point which coolant finally obtains maximum hot explains a periodically stuck Idle Air Control Valve would cause. How curious. The computer also identifies a failed Idle Control Valve. Located where the throttle cable connects to a pipe from air cleaner. The Control valve is just after the throttle plate - where the throttle cable connects to and rotates that plate. Easy to access. Easy to test.
Does the mechanic know the problem is intermittent? A symptom that is important. Does it happen just as the car is getting to full hot coolant temperature? When it happens further defines the suspect.
When you take your computer to a repair shop, does he automatically replace the power supply and blame it on no surge protector? He is just replacing parts in a desperate hope that the problem will be solved or disappear. It is also called shotgunning.
BTW is your coolant level full? Did you recently have the anti-freeze flushed (which must be done every two years or else the glycol eats engine parts). Low coolant and the resulting air bubble that rises to the back of the engine can also cause this problem.
A replacement control valve is maybe $250. Checking the coolant level? Priceless - near zero dollars.
Airliners crash more often than a PCM fail. Most PCM failures (from companies that were letting the engineers design them which GM was not) are mechanics doing shotgunning because electricity is just too confusing.
And it begins.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
now.
I had the coolant flushed several months ago; and yes, it seems to sputter right when the engine starts to warm up.
I hate, hate, hate car problems!
I was told once that a change in fuel or even if the fuel door is open even a slight bit the check engine light will come on. I remember I had changed fuel and opened and shut the door on the gas cap and made sure the gas cap was snug. The light went out.
It's probably not your car's problem but it's something to put away for reference. I guess.
I had the coolant flushed several months ago; and yes, it seems to sputter right when the engine starts to warm up.
With computers and electronics, solving car problems has become significantly easier. Easier when one learns proper diagnostic techniques. Much more difficult if one still shotguns.
Hondas have a small air release valve on engine (just in front of the throttle pulley that the throttle cable connects to). In every Honda, engine design is so sophisticated that opening this little valve means water (coolant) is at the top of that valve when coolant is exactly at the correct level in the radiator. The idea: fill the radiator until water flows out of that little air release valve. Then no air pockets can form inside an engine block. An air bubble is one possiblity (but normally should not happen).
You can open the radiator cap (when engine is cool) to see yourself if coolant levels are accurate.
Your symptoms all point to a coolant problem related the Idler Control valve. Maybe low coolant (because the mechanic did not know how to change coolant). Or a mechanic did a fast flush (which should never be done because you will have water pump failure about 1 year later). Or maybe a failure created by putting wrong coolant into the car. Maybe an Idler control valve failure that coincided with coolant change.
By following the evidence (based only one what was provided here), nobody should have updated computer software or discussed replacing the computer.
BTW, the Car Guys (the tappet Bros Tom and Ray) discuss this constantly with routine laughing. That check engine light always reports problems accurately. Mechanics and others who remain in denial are a serious problem. Mechanics often because they did not do what they are expected and trained to do. Honda routinely sends mechanics to Japan for training and retraining.
In your case, Honda even provides a flow chart for how to find that problem. Nothing in that flow chart says start by blaming the computer. IOW you may want to find a more responsible dealership.
I had the same problem when I could no longer get fuel without ethanol. It ruined the fuel sender in my gas tank also. But on the positive side, I get less miles per gallon with the ethanol blend, and it costs more.:(
That light is telling you to clip the wire and trade it in.
Just a thought.
Be back later - on my way to hell at the moment. :)
Exactly. The dealer I don't think even looked at my valves or drove my car. They just updated the software, and marked my invoice "OK to trade."
WTF? OK to trade? I guess they think if it's not fixable, I just trade it in and get a new one.
Which, I suppose, if it's really not fixable, I'd have to do, but not with them. :(
The Cellar Car's check engine light is on. For a few days the engine was running poorly, like one of the cylinders didn't have full power. Maybe a fuel injector is clogged.
Could be a plug misfiring.
The Cellar Car's check engine light is on. For a few days the engine was running poorly, like one of the cylinders didn't have full power. Maybe a fuel injector is clogged.
Without the engine code numbers, any answer would be wild speculation.
Some cars require a OBD reader. Others will flash the error code on the dash when a jumper wire to attached to a plug underneath the dash. Montgomery County library often has books for each car model that would describe how to get the "DTC" code.
Without that code, I could think of at least 12 different items that would explain that behavior. The actual list is far longer. First get the DTC number.
I think we discussed this last time? But access to the Cellar Car's OBD jumper is behind a big plastic plate to the right of the accelerator, and unlike every other 1995 Maxima, it's riveted on instead of screwed on. I can't figure out how to get this thing off. It doesn't just pull off.
drill out the rivets and them replace them with screws.
If I had a nickel for every rivet I've drilled out... maybe I could buy a six pack of very good beer. and a pizza. but that's probably it.
I always thought the check engine light meant it was time to write a check for the engine.
metal rivets, or
those plastic things you are supposed to really yank on to remove?
It's just a big piece of plastic and where people have pictures of screws there is just plastic.
TW: I appreciate very much you taking the time to respond in full. I will be using some of the suggestions when I take the car in for a second opinion.
Pay no attention to the men behind the curtain!
I think we discussed this last time? But access to the Cellar Car's OBD jumper is behind a big plastic plate to the right of the accelerator, ... It doesn't just pull off.
Only 1996 cars were required to have OBD. The connector must be located within three feet of the driver and must not require any tools to be revealed.
Only later model 1995 cars had it. If the Maxima was built in early 1995, it may not have that connector.
However, most cars had other means of reading code. For example, some had an LED on a computer located under the driver's seat or beneath the front passenger's feet.
Yeah, when I talk about the plastic thingie that blocks my access to the OBD jumper, I'm talking about getting to the super-secret back door access to reading the code.
Here's the post with the picture I took of it
tack puller avial at home despo/lowes ...those look like throw away clips. they'll have to be replaced after you yank them. look for them at pep boys.
also, i have a friend that has a code reader if you wanna borrow it.
So, I had another place look at it. They are telling me that it IS the computer, so they are ordering me a re-manufactured one, with the same warranty, at half the cost.
(shakes head and sighs)
yes. I was told it had the same warranty, and it is a 9 year old car, after all. Do you not think that's a good idea? My other alternative is to return to the dealer for a new PCM at twice the cost.
Wait, isn't the PCM part of the emissions control system? Any part of that system is under warranty, for 80,000 miles, by federal law.
yes. I was told it had the same warranty, and it is a 9 year old car, after all. Do you not think that's a good idea? My other alternative is to return to the dealer for a new PCM at twice the cost.
I just never heard of a re-manufactured computer before.
Wait, isn't the PCM part of the emissions control system? Any part of that system is under warranty, for 80,000 miles, by federal law.
the emissions warranty is 8 yr or 80K whichever comes first, and only for these components:
What Are Specified Major Emission Control Components?
There are three specified major emission control components,
covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use on 1995
and newer vehicles:
* Catalytic converters.
* The electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU).
* The onboard emissions diagnostic device or computer (OBD).
I just never heard of a re-manufactured computer before.
Guess that would be pulled out of a junk car and washed off. :haha:
I thought the Powertrain Control Unit (PCU), Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Electronic Control Unit (ECU) and Electronic Control Module (ECM) are different names for the same critter.
whatever you call it, apparently it's very uncommon/rare for it to go bad.
it figures.
OK, reading through the factory manual instructions for troubleshooting the P1519 code, Honda calls the computer the "ECM/PCM".
That means it would be covered under warranty if it were under 8 years/80k miles. Since you're well under on the mileage, it wouldn't hurt to cry on Honda's shoulder, starting with the dealer, and working your way up Honda's chain.
awwww; you looked up the codes for me. Sweet!
My check engine light is now off. After the application of $800+
it better stay off!
The Cellar Car had the nerve, again, to simply stop acting wrong. The Check Engine light is still lit, but the engine is now running normally.
I believe the Cellar Car is self-healing.
The Cellar Car had the nerve, again, to simply stop acting wrong. The Check Engine light is still lit, but the engine is now running normally.
I believe the Cellar Car is self-healing.
I had an '81 vw deisel rabbit that had that skill.
i can't remember what the hell happened to that car.....
it might still be out there somewhere .....
The Cellar Car had the nerve, again, to simply stop acting wrong. The Check Engine light is still lit, but the engine is now running normally.
That is how most all failures normally happen.
For example, a car with about 100,000 miles sometimes would knock during acceleration from idle. Dealer swore they could not repeat the problem. Eventually I isolated the problem to but a few parts, but could not see anything wrong. Well I took out the distributor (the #1 suspect) and disassembled it. Found grease that lubricated the centrifugal and vacuum advance was sticky. Have since learned this going 'sticky' can be a problem with lithium greases in ten years. Sometimes ignition timing would get stuck until heat or extended operation freed the part.
Finding failures means first using logic to minimize a problem to certain suspects. That is what the check engine light does.
For example, what could cause intermittent failure - without that check engine code and other important facts? ERG valve gets intermittently stuck. Fuel pump is slowly failing - pressure too low - so that sometimes the injectors cannot compensate for that low pressure. Filter partially clogged. Intermittent leak in critical vacuum line. Temperature measurement device is intermittent - not always reporting correct temperature. Device that measures air flow is intermittent. Sticky or worn injector. Oxygen sensor reporting incorrect values. Cracked distributor. Electronic load sensor fails. Any connector is corroded causing varying sensor inputs to the computer. Bad spark plug wire. Partial obstruction in the exhaust manifold. Atmospheric pressure sensor failure.
And this is maybe 2% of possible suspects. A list that becomes massively smaller with that diagnostic code or other symptoms. In every case, the part is constantly defective causing intermittent failures. The problem has not gone away. It is simply a classic intermittent.
Sticky or worn injector.
Based on how it was acting, this is my guess.
With the Cellar car, I thought who ever bought that part is responsible for its upkeep. Let me know if the ashtray is responsible for the problem.
I'm so anal - I went and found the damn thread and looked it up -
Brian got the ashtray
You had the glovebox
Thanks, classic, that's good to know - 85% of these problems are directly attributable to the ashtray.
I stand ready and willing to replace the ashtray, if needed. :)
The ashtray is now my phone holder. It does a decent job of it.
Well that's the problem - nobody bought the fuel injectors!
How's my back seat doing?
See, even in a car that's up on concrete blocks, the back-seat can serve a function. You can sleep in it, you can read in it, you can...
It's getting beat up from hauling bass amps!
Good and hearty back seat, then. :)
Goddammit! My check engine light came back on!
and the car is still doing the same sheet (running ragged, engine hesitating)
NOW what do I do?
arrggh!
Take it back, say you want a refund on the new computer system since that obviously wasn't the problem, and tell them to figure out what the problem really is.
Oh...ugh.
Cars can be such a pain in the ass. :(
NOW what do I do?
Go back and read what I posted. Very first thing to do (from that post): take off that cap (as described with the noted precaution) and inspect coolant level.
Meanwhile, yes, they need to discuss your refund.
Who did this analysis? A Honda dealer?
both a Honda dealer and an independent auto shop made the diagnosis. I'm not going to fool around with the engine myself, trust me--bad idea.
I'm not going to fool around with the engine myself, trust me--bad idea.
Then you also never do anything more dangerous such as put air into tires or fill the car with gas. Viewing a coolant level is about as complicated as filling the wiper fluid and safer than driving.
Otherwise just keep throwing money at it a few $hundreds at a time. It is a job most often given to the shop's temporary kid because it is that trivial and easy. They do not even trust the kid to drive a car. But checking fluid levels - even the kid can do it.
Then you also never do anything more dangerous such as put air into tires or fill the car with gas. .
Not even that, I think i remember (full service gas only?)...
eta:
http://www.cellar.org/showthread.php?t=16187&highlight=service(nods) and why I can't deal well with car shit.
Does your user manual give you any hints?
On my 98 Explorer the check engine light came on and the engine was not doing anything wrong. I drove 100,000 more miles with a smiley face sticker over that check engine light. :p:
My PT Cruiser is playing the check engine light game but I do believe I have a short in the cooling system because I get air conditioning on the regular fan if the temperature gauge is all the way on the blue. In the Cruiser its the fan that is supposed to designate air conditioning or just plain air.
if it were just the light, I'd ignore it, but it's the engine performance. It's running ragged, and the engine is (sometimes) sputtering or hesitating. Gets my heart in my throat, I tell ya. The manual just says that continued driving with the CE light on may damage the emissions system.
sorry, monster & tw if I'm a car idiot. Actually, it's more of a tool/handy person idiot, but I've found after painful experience (and experimenting) in my life that such things are better left to people more adept with manual skills than me. I know my strengths, and that ain't one of them.
Yeah, I know they are easy tasks, and I could learn to do them. But dammit, I don't wanna!
Which is why some people also much carry many green 2.75 by 6 inch sheets of paper in their wallet. Go somewhere and ask them to open the radiator. You observe what is inside and then ask the 'assistant' what he sees. The put the cap back on. Do not do anything else (but give him sheets of green paper). Then post here what was observed. Solutions are that simple - step by step.
It is required in most states.. If an errror code exists, then the car fails inspection.
At this point she's committed, to the tune of $800, and they didn't fix the problem. She has to go back to them and make them fix it, or get her money back and go elsewhere.
She has to go back to them and make them fix it, or get her money back and go elsewhere.
Plenty of options exist. When we choose not to learn basics, then compensate by moving plenty of green paper through wallets. It creates jobs. That's what paper is for. Compensates for not wanting to learn and compensates for labor. And so the term 'just compensation'.
Bottom line: simplest solution if one cannot check fluids in the radiator. Replace the Idle Air Control Valve. Just pay the money. DTC implies it is getting stuck as engine temperature changes. It does not necessarily explain the failure. But then other critical details (not provided) would probably define that or some other problem. Those details will not be forthcoming. So just replace the Idle Air Control Valve.
Only better techs would put an oscilloscope on the IACV wire. Then that problem could be observed. Most techs do not have sufficient knowledge and tools. And would be further stifled by insufficient details. What will they do? Replace the IACV - the shotgun solution.
Bottom line - that $800 spent on a new computer is gone. No way to recover that money - unless the dealer has a special place in his heart for Cloud. Move on. Replace the IAC valve (which was always my #1 suspect (considering almost no facts). A new valve has about a 65% chance of success - clearly the best option at this point. More money is the only remaining solution.
Bullshit, they took her money to fix the problem, and didn't. They owe her $800 dollars worth of fixing.
I'm sure they'd be willing to refund me the $500 + for the actual part . . . if they removed it and put my old PCM in there (if they even still have it). Don't really want that, though, nor do I want to make a big scene. I received the same diagnosis and suggest for a fix from two different places, and went with that, but I knew there was a chance that it wouldn't fix the problem. I will keep trying--have to, anyway, since it's my only transportation option.
I really appreciate everyone's advice. The Cellar is really great for that! I refuse to be ashamed that I'm not good at fixing cars. I'm not an idiot, but I'm not handy, either. I try to keep my car well-maintained anyway.
In the end, I listen to advice and use my own common sense.
I received the same diagnosis and suggest for a fix from two different places, and went with that, but I knew there was a chance that it wouldn't fix the problem.
They simply followed a simplistic diagnostic chart. It says if the valve clicks when voltage is applied, then replace the computer.
Well, an idle air control valve actually opens and closes quickly per commands from the computer. So quickly as to need an oscilloscope to actually see it. Computer monitors how fast the valve is responding. If the response is not what was ordered, then the computer flags a check engine code. If the valve works normally but too slow, then computer gets replaced (if only following the diagnostic chart). Valve can be sticky, partially clogged, etc. and still pass the on-off test.
The entire circuit is real simple. Computer tells valve to open and close rapidly. Valve opens and closes rapidly. If valve does not do that fast enough, then an error code is created. Only three things in that circuit - computer, wire, and valve.
How I would have responded? I would have asked why they knew the computer was defective. I never mention the IACV. Let them mention the valve and why they know the $200 valve is not defective. I have found only some mechanics who really know their stuff because the word why is used heavily. The stuff I do not know then gets confirmed later with an internet search.
If anyone tells me something without the reasons why and without numbers, then he is lying.
Standing in the dealer to get a new oil filter or wiper blades is very educational. Watching them talk to women quickly separates honest dealers from the shady ones. Numbers (verses no numbers) quickly identifies the honest ones.
Sure, they went through the diagnostic procedure, and when some part that is acting up intermittently, worked at the time, they blamed the PCM.
Sure, they went through the diagnostic procedure, ...
Diagnostic procedure does not work for intermittent problems. It can only identify a constantly defective part. Intermittents require additional facts.
In a previous discussion, I noted Toyota's biggest problem. People. In this case, the mechanic cannot really be effective if, for example, the exact conditions during every 'failure' are not defined. For example, Cloud later noted that this failure occurred as the car was warming. Also critical are factors such as where the temperature needle on the gauge was located during each failure? Was it accelerating or during constant speed? How many minutes after starting the cold engine? How much gas in the tank? Was air conditioner on? Headlights? Does it happen at night and day? Does it happen when going uphill or down?
Just a short list of what must be provided so that a mechanic can really do his job. A problem because most people cannot bother to collect facts or make the problem reproducible. And because so many people only get angry when asked question after question. So many want intermittent problems solved immediately.
So a mechanic (if not provided an oscilloscope and without information on how to make the problem reproducible) can only keep replacing parts until something works - shotgunning. That will be the solution here.
Check list said if the IACV is not constantly failed, then replace the computer. Check list procedure does not address an IACV failure that occurs, for example, only as the engine gets warm. Only way a mechanic can find / fix that problem is if a person / driver volunteers that fact.
car is back at mechanic. I asked him why didn't he check the Idle Air Control Valve--and he said he did. He said he checked the circuits along the system, manipulated the valve by hand, etc.
So, we'll see. I can't get my inspection sticker with the car like that.
I am shocked SHOCKED that the mechanic performed the checks that tw repeatedly complained he must not have done.
He SAID he performed the checks. How is Cloud to verify that? Guy was like (thought bubble) "hmmm, some friend told her to ask blah blah blah..." (speak bubble) "SURE MA'AM, I did that!"
;)
Well, I pretty much believe him. He described what he did in much more detail than I put down. And how is anybody supposed to verify actions like that, anyhow?
omg
Again, bad joking on my part.
I'm gonna quit for the day (well, probably not.) :)
Well, I can ask. I can ask for the parts that were replaced. I can read the description on the invoice. But otherwise, I pretty much have to take their word for it. Do you have a better idea?
No I don't have a better idea.
Sigh.
Mostly, I get so sick of everyone waiting around like spiders for any slip-up they perceive from tw...no, not you. So, it followed that mechanic man said "yeah" and...
Nebber mind, again.
spiders! spiders! get them OFF me!
(runs screaming into the night. . . . okay, the afternoon)
Put some electrical tape over the little lights on your dashboard.
Issue resolved 04/21/2010. Left vm for customer, no cb. Closing ticket.
that would be nice, if 1) the engine wasn't acting up; and 2) I didn't have the inspection sticker problem
guy called and said that he's still getting the same code, and so he's ordered ANOTHER PCM to be installed next week. I guess we can only try, but I'm feeling very discouraged.
I am shocked SHOCKED that the mechanic performed the checks that tw repeatedly complained he must not have done.
He did what I posted and did not do what I suggested. Please read what was posted.
Problem is intermittent. If an intermittent IACV, then he did nothing to identify a sticky, temperature sensitive IACV. He did what a diagnostics chart says to identify a constant (hard) failure. Apply voltage. Hear it click. But this is not a hard failure. A valve failing as I have suggested will always pass that test and continue to fail intermittently.
What UT did not read. An IACV works by opening and closing quickly. So fast that only an oscilloscope can see that timing. Did you read the word ‘oscilloscope’? Now read what was posted and tell us the mechanic did what was suggested.
Computers rarely fail. And do not fail only when an engine is warming up. Valves that fail only during warm up do so intermittently. Which part more likely causes an intermittent?
My second point that UT did not read: Mechanic is now doing only what he understands - shotgunning. Just keep replacing parts until something works. He reloaded software. No change. Replaced the computer. No change. So he is replacing the computer again without any reason to believe it is bad. At what point does it become obvious that the computer probably is not a problem? He has resorted to the “I don’t have a clue” option. Shotgunning because he has no idea what else to do.
The best part to shotgun is the one most likely to cause this type of intermittent (heat related) failure. What was posted, and not what UT read. UT go find a paragraph that includes the word oscilloscope. Now read this time what was posted.
Well, he is replacing a second computer - for free. If that does nothing, he should then shotgun the part that was more likely defective - an IACV. I put an IACV at about 65% likely to solve the problem - which is why I so dislike shotgun solutions.
which is why I so dislike car problems. blecch!
Very well, sir, we don't know what he meant by "check voltages". But I'd wager he did what the service manual told him to do.
Very well, sir, we don't know what he meant by "check voltages".
'Check voltages' is about disconnecting the valve from its connector. Then measuring voltage on that connector. It says power is provided to the valve. We already know that. The valve works most of the time. That measurement does nothing to find an intermittent - only identifies a constant failure.
Moving on to what is known - new information for Cloud. IACV fully opens when the car starts. That is why a car is started without pressing the accelerator. The IACV valve does that automatically. If the IAC valve does not open, then the car would not idle at a higher rev - ie 1200 RPM. Therefore that valve operated normally when the car first started.
As the car gets warm, the valve remains mostly closed. But if a warming valve gets stuck, then the car will run rough (too lean) until that unpowered valve eventually frees itself; and closes.
Of course a fully depressed accelerator would make that stuck valve ‘not apparent’. So yes, what is done to make ‘roughness’ no longer happen would be a critically important symptom.
yep, it's still on. After a computer update; then a replacement; then a replacement for the replacement.
I have very few options. I can keep throwing money at it, (and NO, sorry, I'm not going to start messing around under the hood myself) and hope someone can fix it. Or I can just drive it until it dies, until I need my new inspection sticker (in August), or I feel ready to get a new car.
54,000 miles. bugger.
54,000 miles. bugger.
Holy crap, I've got more on my jeep...
yeah. Makes it harder to get a good used trade in.
take the bulb out, and trade it in
sounds like a good idea to me. except for the fraud part.
sounds like a good idea to me. except for the fraud part.
and they still did not replaced the part that the computer says is defective? The Idle Air Control Valve.
well, after three months and over $1300, I may have a fix. I had the "throttle body assembly" replaced. No light for two days--keep your fingers crossed!
I had the "throttle body assembly" replaced.
Idle Air Control Valve is part of the replaced throttle body assembly. Who decided to replace it?
Did they reinburse you from the four replaced computers?
took it back to the dealer. I think I made such a stink about the computer, someone finally decided to look for other causes. Sadly, no reimbursement, because that was from a different mechanic.
whether or not the pcm was necessary, I probably saved money in the long run, because I feel the dealer would have replaced the computer first also, at a higher cost.
and I'm not 100% positive yet it's fixed. we'll see.
I once asked the dealer if I could put a locking gas cap on my car. The mechanic told me changing my gas cap would result in the check engine light always being on.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/a/CElightarticle.htmCHECK ENGINE. There's nothing fun about those two words. There's also not a lot of logic to be gathered from them. Check engine? Could they be a little more specific? Nope, they can't. That's because the Check Engine light comes to life if anything, and we do mean
anything isn't 100% under the hood. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your gas cap could be too loose (no kidding).
I have my fingers crossed for you cloud!
oh and P.S.
When the mechanics did a OBD scan what was the code?
the code was P1519 I believe. still not on today, yay!
That's because the Check Engine light comes to life if anything, and we do mean anything isn't 100% under the hood.
The P1519 code says only three things can cause the failure. Computer. Wire. Idle Air Control Valve. So the mechanic kept replacing computers. Never replaced the most likely reason for failure - IACV.
Replacing a throttle body replaces the IACV.
Replacing a throttle body replaces the IACV.
And possibly other issues that may have caused that code?
Even if not, they make more by keeping the "one fix" part in stock and get the customers car on the road faster.
the code was P1519 I believe. still not on today, yay!
great! yay...