What might be making you a tad apprehensive, but might not, as it's too soon to tell

[xoxoxoBruce]

As long as you get #1 at TDC, the worst that could happen is a leaky gasket or something simple that you'd have to redo, along with checking for children within earshot.

Like you said, the noise could be something else. The only other thing might be the alternator, but I'd bet on the water pump too. Besides, what you're doing needs doing anyway so all's good.

Oh, have you checked the radiator fan? Pullers, sometimes when they get worn, start to rub the fins and could slide back under acceleration. Just a thought if this doesn't solve it.

[chrisinhouston]

Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce

Oh, have you checked the radiator fan? Pullers, sometimes when they get worn, start to rub the fins and could slide back under acceleration. Just a thought if this doesn't solve it.

On a regular engine that might be true but for a transverse the fan units are up by the radiator in front and electrically controlled. And the noise is definitely coming from the area facing the right wheel where the belts and pulleys are, it seemed in the center area which could negate it being the alternator which is towards the front.

The issue for me is not so much my ability but working on an older car with a very dirty engine, brittle connections and other plastic parts that break or crumble.

Today I removed the spark plugs as I planned on changing them as well and it is easier to turn over the engine with them out but ran into a glitch. The spark plugs are recessed down little tubes in the center of the cylinder heads and the center rear spark plug cable came off ok but left a little rubber boot way down inside decided to stay on the spark plug making it impossible to remove the plug. So for about an hour I worked by feel (you can't see into the tube as it faces the firewall) with a large hemostat, I figured it was a long and narrow version of a needle nose and I managed to pull bits of the rubber off. Then I resorted to a dental tool with a long curved point and picked out bits of rubber for another hour until the last of it came out. Finally removed the spark plug. It is amazing how many tools I have collected and especially unusual ones like the medical and dental tools

Then it was the valve covers, the front is easy but once again the rear presents all kinds of issue as the wiring harness and an AC line are up against it. Finally got it out.

Now playing with finding TDC for #1 which is on the rear head. I also have to jam something into the ring gear via a transmission access panel to jam the crank in place to break free the crank pulley nut which is supposed to be torqued to 159 ft lbs. I did this once before but can't remember what I did. The Toyoto work book says to use a special tool to hold the pulley in place, I may go to the auto part store and see if they rent out a tool like that.

I am remembering how I swore I would never do this kind of job again. What made me forget that?

[xoxoxoBruce]

Originally Posted by chrisinhouston

On a regular engine that might be true but for a transverse the fan units are up by the radiator in front and electrically controlled.

I was speaking of an electric fan mounted to the radiator. When they get worn they can develop longitudinal movement that will make them rub under different vehicle dynamics, depending of whether it's a puller or pusher.

Your ear says right front, so that's the logical place to start. They make a boot puller tool that can save a lot of aggravation, as it hooks around the plug and pulls the boot from the far end. It keeps from chewing up a lot of rubber bits that can drop into the cylinder when the plug comes out. Like the dental equipment, it's handy for a shitload of other things also.

[chrisinhouston]

Thanks! I didn't quite understand what you meant.

Biggest problem I'm having now is breaking free the bolt for the crank pulley. The pulley has 2 metric threaded hole on either side of the bolt and the Toyota shop manual says to use Special Tool blabidy bla which is like a long handled wrench with a Y shaped yoke at the front and gets bolted to the pulley and then you use a breaker bar and a 22mm socket to break loose the big bolt. The Haynes manual say to jamb a pry bar into the ring gear via a removable plate on the side of the bell housing or put a socket on one of the bolts on the side of the flywheel, probably one for the torque converter. If I go that route I will need my son to help me tomorrow, it's a 2 person job.

I tried to fabricate a tool out of 1/8 aluminum flat bar stock I had in the shop, drilled two hole for the bolt and between them for the socket. It looked nifty and I tightened it up with some high strength metric engine bolts I had. Bent the bolts right off as soon as I pulled on the breaker bar so I quit. Wish I could remember how I did it last time, I must have jammed the flywheel in place.

On the upside, Toyota was able to order 3 of the plastic connectors that cracked, the ones that attach to the ignition coils and they were only $8 each.

[xoxoxoBruce]

Being able to get those connectors is a big help.
If it were a stick with a hefty flywheel, jamming with a pry bar would be easy, but the flex plate for an automatic is pretty flimsy. You have to make sure you're not bending it, so a prop between the ring gear and the ground would probably be safest.