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Old 09-16-2011, 06:39 PM   #1
tw
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When accelerator is pressed, that cable should retract to the right. That is the first thing to inspect (with engine off). When a driver (assistant) releases the accelerator, then that cable must move leftmost. And always be under tension. Movement should always be smooth.

Curved part moved by the accelerator connects to shaft and a plate inside the air duct. As the accelerator is pressed, then the plate opens. More air let into that duct means a computer dumping more gas into the engine - also called acceleration. Computer will dump as much gas as necessary to maintain a vacuum behind that throttle plate.

You must be able to rotate the curved piece counterclockwise with your hand. It must also move smoothly. And the cable should retract accordingly - and smoothly.

Any stickiness is why Toyotas were accused of uncontrolled acceleration. Any stickiness means you must treat it as a loaded gun pointed at someone's head. The motion is so critical that multiple springs exist so that a released accelerator pedal will rotate the curved piece fully clockwise everytime.

Your symptoms do not make sense. If you pressed the accelerator pedal, then the cable must always move right. You should not be able to press the accelerator without moving that cable in the picture. There must be nothing to cause the curved piece to be disconnected from the accelerator pedal. Stated with conviction - if that makes the point.

I am thinking he reconnected a clip that holds the cable to that curved piece. That could only happen if springs that push the curved piece and throttle plate back to idle were somehow missing. And if the clip that holds that cable to the curved piece is worn - must be replaced by a new one from the dealer's parts department. But then that is only speculation, in part, because what Jim may have reconnected is not even shown in any pictures.

BTW, solve it now. Winter gets too cold to fix things right.

Anyone recommending WD-40 should be banned from technical discussions. WD-40 is not and never was a lubricant. With age, it makes accelerator cables sticky (ie Toyota stuck accelerators). WD-40 is a solvent like kerosene, Mr Clean, and Naval Jelly. Except it gets sticky with age. It must be removed after breaking free rust so as to not 'glue' things together. Never use WD-40 on the accelerator cable and related parts. Also stated with same conviction.

Nothing to adjust. If any part is loose, does not move smoothly, or intermittently disconnects, then a cheap solution is obtained in the dealer's parts department. Nothing in that 'throttle plate control system' should need adjustment. If any part disconnected, then it is still defective.

Last edited by tw; 09-16-2011 at 06:48 PM.
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:17 PM   #2
SamIam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tw View Post
When accelerator is pressed, that cable should retract to the right. That is the first thing to inspect (with engine off). When a driver (assistant) releases the accelerator, then that cable must move leftmost. And always be under tension. Movement should always be smooth.

Curved part moved by the accelerator connects to shaft and a plate inside the air duct. As the accelerator is pressed, then the plate opens. More air let into that duct means a computer dumping more gas into the engine - also called acceleration. Computer will dump as much gas as necessary to maintain a vacuum behind that throttle plate.

You must be able to rotate the curved piece counterclockwise with your hand. It must also move smoothly. And the cable should retract accordingly - and smoothly.

Any stickiness is why Toyotas were accused of uncontrolled acceleration. Any stickiness means you must treat it as a loaded gun pointed at someone's head. The motion is so critical that multiple springs exist so that a released accelerator pedal will rotate the curved piece fully clockwise everytime.

Your symptoms do not make sense. If you pressed the accelerator pedal, then the cable must always move right. You should not be able to press the accelerator without moving that cable in the picture. There must be nothing to cause the curved piece to be disconnected from the accelerator pedal. Stated with conviction - if that makes the point.

I am thinking he reconnected a clip that holds the cable to that curved piece. That could only happen if springs that push the curved piece and throttle plate back to idle were somehow missing. And if the clip that holds that cable to the curved piece is worn - must be replaced by a new one from the dealer's parts department. But then that is only speculation, in part, because what Jim may have reconnected is not even shown in any pictures.

BTW, solve it now. Winter gets too cold to fix things right.

Anyone recommending WD-40 should be banned from technical discussions. WD-40 is not and never was a lubricant. With age, it makes accelerator cables sticky (ie Toyota stuck accelerators). WD-40 is a solvent like kerosene, Mr Clean, and Naval Jelly. Except it gets sticky with age. It must be removed after breaking free rust so as to not 'glue' things together. Never use WD-40 on the accelerator cable and related parts. Also stated with same conviction.

Nothing to adjust. If any part is loose, does not move smoothly, or intermittently disconnects, then a cheap solution is obtained in the dealer's parts department. Nothing in that 'throttle plate control system' should need adjustment. If any part disconnected, then it is still defective.
Well, THANK YOU, TW! I knew someone on the Cellar would have a practical solution. I'll try the things you suggested. My accelerator does not stick. It just did not rev the engine even when pushed to the floor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic
Could be a stuck accelerator cable? Might just need to be tightened. Might need to be replaced. Could be whatever it is attached to needs to be lubricated or has some type of dirt/crap/crud .... WD-40 the entire engine, then duct tape something and see what happens.
There is something about WD-40 which is dear to the male heart (tw being the exception). I called another friend who supposedly knows EVERYTHING about cars. He came over stared at the engine for a while and said "It just needs a little WD-40. I've got some with me." Then he proceeded to drench the offending parts in the stuff.

I love duct taping things! I have this really cool turquoise duct tape. Maybe I'll wrap some around a radiator hose or something.

Quote:
HungLikeJesus]Were you able to drive it home? If so, how did it behave?

Edit: And I completely agree with zippyt.
That is the weirdest thing of all. It drove home from the library, running just like always. After being sprayed with WD-40, it drove just fine to Wal-Mart and back again. Maybe Jimmy should have more faith in his mechanical skills and he actually fixed it.

Maybe it was just a fit of elderly car grumpiness. Or maybe it was that gazinta acting up. I'm planning on taking it on a relatively long trip in about 10 days. I hope it doesn't choose to play the same trick 20 miles up some jeep trail in Canyonlands.
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:00 PM   #3
Gravdigr
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Originally Posted by tw View Post
WD-40 is a solvent like kerosene, Mr Clean, and Naval Jelly.
I was under the impression that WD-40 is a water dispersant. As in Water Dispersant, formula #40.

I've always found it to be pretty safe on damn near everything. What does it dissolve?
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:20 AM   #4
SamIam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tw View Post
When accelerator is pressed, that cable should retract to the right. That is the first thing to inspect (with engine off). When a driver (assistant) releases the accelerator, then that cable must move leftmost. And always be under tension. Movement should always be smooth...

You must be able to rotate the curved piece counterclockwise with your hand. It must also move smoothly. And the cable should retract accordingly - and smoothly.
Jim and I checked this yesterday, and the cable retracted accordingly when I pressed the accelerator with the engine off. He also tried rotating the curved piece and that was fine, too.

Quote:
You can also rev an idling car engine by simply rotating that curved piece. Your only concern is keeping fingers and hair out of any exposed fan belts and away from the radiator fan. That radiator fan can suddenly turn on when you do not expect it. Nothing else in there should remove body parts.
Yeah, Jim also did that when the accelerator wasn't responding. It reved real nice. But when he took his hand off, it went back to barely responding. I am very curious as to why it did this. One of life's mysteries, I guess.

[quote=tw;756751]
Quote:
Originally Posted by tw View Post
Reviewing those pictures, a yellow arrow on the right point to where the cable attaches to a clamp. Did Jim move something there? Nothing should have moved. Those nuts, once attached, should not move. That cable should never become loose from its clamp. Are those nuts loose (also called finger tight)? If yes, they must be wrench tightened. And then dap nail polish in a small spot where that nut touches threads. Nail polish acts both as a glue and identifies a 'lose' nut.
He checked to see if the screw was tight. I don't know about the nuts, but I'll check myself today. Can I use turquoise nail polish? Pretty Please?

You have been extremely helpful. Many thanks!
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:51 PM   #5
tw
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Originally Posted by SamIam View Post
Can I use turquoise nail polish? Pretty Please?
My preference is "Sally Hanson Hard as Nails."

My favorite emergency kit is a Swiss Army Knife. I always feel so naked in airports. Not due to scanners. Without my emergency kit, I just feel lost.
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