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Old 12-14-2007, 10:54 AM   #16
Cloud
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yeah, Shawnee: you are awesome!
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Old 12-14-2007, 01:39 PM   #17
Shawnee123
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Thanks! One of those things that could have been better but I was in a hurry. Still fun, though.
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Old 12-15-2007, 09:12 AM   #18
Cloud
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Wa-Lah!

Laughing at a friend of mine, who said:

Some guy somewhere always does that for me. Maybe like, the Jiffy Lube Guy. Or some guy passing by when I'm trying to attempt it by myself, and I obviously am in a moment of distress. So, therefore heroes are needed. It happens. It does to me anyways. Perhaps go out and walk around your car, then attempt to open the hood, and find that oil stick a majigy thing. Look around, at all the neat stuff in there. Cry, because you realize you don't know what the fuck you are doing. And wa-lah. Some guy pops up and will ask if you are okay, and if you could please put that stick down now, so you don't hurt yourself. Then they just fix it. Not so hard. I don't know what all the fuss is all about.
It happens at gas stations alot, too. When I don't know how to get the cap of the damn tire and get that stupid thing with the air wherever the hell it's supposed to be. Some guy pops up, and does it for me. Or.. when I can't find which damn button to push to get the gas to go in my car, or whatever. Some guy pops up. Pushes the right button. Washes my windows. They are nice.


Don't think that strategy works for this old hag, unfortunately.
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:33 PM   #19
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Cloud, checking tire pressure and fluid levels is different from actually servicing the vehicle. Get someone (that knows what they are doing), to show you how, and it's no more difficult than checking your gas gage.
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:56 PM   #20
BrianR
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still full serv only in New Joisey
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Old 12-17-2007, 01:06 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud View Post
... but I need to check the oil and tires far more often than I need to change the oil or rotate the tires or something. They say tire pressure really affects your gas mileage.
And miracle creams from the Pond's Institute create younger skin. Without knowledge of simple stuff, then you invite others to scam you on expensive stuff.

Why check oil and tire pressure so often? Because they know you don't know anything; would rather take advantage of you. I watch this in repair shops and dealerships. Watch, for example, how they lie to women - probably to learn how much they can overcharge. I immediately learn which service shops want to be honest. You cannot do that if, by not even learning the simplest stuff, you have set yourself up to be a mark.

There is no reason to be checking oil and tire pressure on any properly working vehicle. But 'checking' this and finding other problems occurs when 'they' see a mark.

Let's see. How often do we change spark plugs? Never once I built my first electronic ignition. Now all cars (thanks to enviromental laws) have electronic ignitions. Never replace spark plugs in a functioning car.

How often is a tune up necessary? Also never for the same reasons.

How often is wheel alignment performed? Annually? Never on a properly designed car. But when one cannot even check tire pressure, then that $100 job is recommended annually. Profit is too high and labor too simple for another fast $100.

We also learned how to lock doors. Why? Because it is not smart to remain ignornant. Certain things such as making change from a $20 without assistance from a cash register is also required in a technical society.

Why disassemble a ten speed bike? Any properly designed bike needs no such disassesmbly. A few simple cable adjustments without removing anything. Cloud, start asking some damning questions of your information sources. Learn why another could quickly see through George Jr's lies about Saddam's WMDs. It comes from doing and then learning to smell a skunk.

Many if not most service attendants in full service gas stations (all gas stations in NJ and OR are full service) also cannot check tire pressure or oil. So you trust them to do it? He says he knows and that alone is sufficient for you to trust him?

Detecting low tire pressure become easy by just looking at the tire. Learning is by first finding and filling a low pressure tire. Experience then means low pressure becomes obvious by just looking. Knowledge that comes from experience and from doing. Knowledge that makes a scammer's job too difficult.

The problem is not just knowing how to do this stuff. Too many even ignore the Check Engine light. Car runs fine. Light must be 'burned in'. Also easy to believe when one becomes Paris Hilton; never even changed a light bulb. Doing the little things means not becoming a mark. Learning by making mistakes - essential.

Last edited by tw; 12-17-2007 at 01:19 AM.
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:43 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tw View Post
There is no reason to be checking oil and tire pressure on any properly working vehicle. But 'checking' this and finding other problems occurs when 'they' see a mark.
"Properly working vehicle" is not something every layman can determine. If it seems to run fine, assuming no propblem can be very bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tw
How often is a tune up necessary? Also never for the same reasons.
Again, I have to disagree. I poke around look & check stuff all the time - my roter was excessivly worn and needed to be replaced. Nothing in the operation of the vehicle told me this. Just my being nosey and inquisitive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tw
How often is wheel alignment performed? Annually? Never on a properly designed car.
What if you drive contantly over speed bumps or hit potholes??? Both these things and many more can affect your alignment, and thust tire and brake wear. I am not a "car guy" or anything, but I know enough to be sensible. Not doing anything because you "think" things are ok is a bad idea, a very bad idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tw
Why disassemble a ten speed bike? Any properly designed bike needs no such disassesmbly. A few simple cable adjustments without removing anything. Cloud, start asking some damning questions of your information sources. Learn why another could quickly see through George Jr's lies about Saddam's WMDs. It comes from doing and then learning to smell a skunk.
And only you tw, could bring WMD, Saddam, Bush, and dissembling a 10 speed bike in one paragraph while trying to be serious. Bravo! You never cease to amaze.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tw
Doing the little things means not becoming a mark. Learning by making mistakes - essential.
On this last part I wholeheartedly agree.
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:45 AM   #23
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no, I don't want to be a mark, certainly, and I am very wary of car repair guys. and guys who come up to me offering to "help."

just to be clear here--is any one saying I DON'T need to check the air pressure in my tires to keep them properly inflated; or that I DON'T need to check my oil level more often than the every 3-6 months I get my oil changed?

One thing to keep in mind is that it's very hot and dusty here most of the year--those "extreme" driving conditions the car manual talks about. I think, for instance, that very hot weather can impact your tire's inflation.
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:51 AM   #24
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Here's what Consumer Reports advises to keep your new car running to 200,000 miles:

Quote:
How to maintain your new car

One of the reassuring qualities of contemporary cars is that they need much less-frequent service to keep them running well. Changing the spark plugs, breaker points, and condenser used to be a seasonal exercise, and body rust was accepted as a normal if unfortunate hazard of aging. Now many spark plugs can go 100,000 miles between changes. Electronic ignition has done away with the points and condenser. Chassis, suspensions, and even some transmissions are lubed for life. And factory rust-through warranties typically run six years or longer. What’s more, reliability has improved significantly. The result is that most late-model cars and trucks should be able to go 200,000 miles with regular upkeep. Here are a few simple, periodic checks and procedures you can do that will help you get there.

Three key tasks

Check the engine oil. Do it regularly--monthly for a vehicle in good condition; more often if you notice an oil leak or find you need to add oil routinely. The car should be parked on level ground so you can get an accurate dipstick reading. Don’t overfill. And if you do have a leak, find and fix it soon.

Check tire air pressure. Once a month and before any extended road trips, use an accurate tire-pressure gauge to check the inflation pressure in each tire, including the spare. Do this when the tires are cold (before the vehicle has been driven or after no more than a couple of miles of driving). Use the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle’s manufacturer, not the maximum pressure embossed on the tire’s sidewall. The recommended pressure is usually found on a placard on a front doorjamb, in the glove compartment, or in the owner’s manual. Also be sure to inspect tires for abnormal or uneven wear, cuts, and any sidewall bulges you can see.

CR advises that digital tire-pressure gauges (which cost about $15 to $25) are probably the best bet overall because they will give an accurate reading or none at all. Many pencil-type gauges (typically $10 to $15) are good as well. Note that to check the pressure in a temporary spare tire, which is often 60 psi, you will need a gauge that goes higher than that--say from 0 up to 90 pounds.

Give it a wash. Try to wash the car every week, if you can. Wash the body and, if necessary, hose out the fender wells and undercarriage to remove dirt and road salt. It’s time to wax the finish when water beads become larger than a quarter.


Other checks at each oil change

For normal driving, many automakers recommend changing the engine oil and filter every 7,500 miles or six months, whichever comes first. This is sufficient for the majority of motorists. For “severe” driving--with frequent, very cold starts and short trips, dusty conditions, or trailer towing--the change interval should be shortened to every 3,000 miles or three months. (Check your owner’s manual for the specific intervals recommended for your vehicle.) Special engines such as diesels and turbocharged engines may need more-frequent oil changes.

Check the air filter. Remove the air-filter element and hold it up to a strong light. If you don’t see light, replace it. Regardless, follow the recommended service intervals.

Check the constant-velocity-joint boots. On front-wheel-drive and some four-wheel-drive vehicles, examine these bellowslike rubber boots, also known as CV boots, on the drive axles. Immediately replace any that are cut, cracked, or leaking. If dirt contaminates the CV joint it can quickly lead to an expensive fix.

Inspect the exhaust system. If you’re willing to make under-car inspections, check for rusted-through exhaust parts that need replacing. Also tighten loose clamps. Do this while the car is up on ramps. If a shop changes your oil, have them make these checks. Listen for changes in the exhaust sound while driving. It’s usually advisable to replace the entire exhaust system all at once rather than to repair sections at different times.

Look at the brakes. For most people it makes sense to have a shop check and service the brakes. If you handle your own brake work, remove all wheels and examine the brake system. Replace excessively worn pads or linings, and have badly scored rotors or drums machined or replaced. The brakes should be checked at least twice per year; more often if you drive a lot of miles.

Check the fluids. On many newer cars, the automatic transmission is sealed. On cars where it is not sealed, check the transmission dipstick with the engine warmed up and running (see the owner’s manual for details). Also check the power-steering-pump dipstick (it’s usually attached to the fluid-reservoir cap) and the level in the brake-fluid reservoir. If the brake-fluid level is low, top it up and have the system checked for leaks.

Clean the radiator. Prevent overheating by removing debris with a soft brush and washing the outside of the radiator with a detergent solution.

Check the battery. Check the battery’s terminals and cables to make sure they are securely attached, with no corrosion. If the battery has removable caps, check its fluid level every few months--especially in warmer climates.


Regular maintenance every two to four years

Drain and flush the cooling system. Considering the hassle of collecting and safely disposing of old antifreeze, you may want to leave this to a shop.
Change the automatic-transmission fluid. Many models require that you replace the fluid and filter every 36,000 miles--sooner if the normally pink fluid takes on a brownish tint. With some cars the fluid and, if applicable, the filter can go 100,000 miles or more. With other late models, the transmission fluid never needs to be changed. Check your owner’s manual for this information.

Replace the drive belts and hoses. Do this every two to three years, even if they don’t show any wear. If a belt becomes noisy, have it adjusted.

Change the timing belt. If your vehicle has a belt instead of a chain, stick to the manufacturer’s recommended replacement interval--usually every 60,000 to 80,000 miles. Check the owner’s manual or consult a dealer. Failure to change the timing belt can result in a very expensive engine repair if the belt should break.
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:56 AM   #25
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oooh, it says to "check the constant velocity joint boots."

No fucking clue.
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Old 12-17-2007, 09:25 AM   #26
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They are more commonly known as "CV joints" They connect the tire to the axle - somethin like that. The boots hold all the grease/lubicant in. I've never had mine checked, but FWIW I have had one replaced which turned into replacing both and more $$$.

CV Joint info
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Old 12-17-2007, 09:58 AM   #27
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Maintenance while keeping your hands clean.

These "key tasks" are important. You can do a lot toward them without getting your hands dirty.

Tires:
Low tire pressure can cause uneven tire wear and thus shorten the life of the tires and waste money.
It can make the steering seem heavy, and cause the car to drift to one side or the other.
It can (allegedly) cause blowouts.
I can vouch for the first two myself.

You can spot a badly underinflated tire pretty easily. They bulge at the bottom. If one of your tires is a different shape to the others, check it or get it checked.

Oil:
Low oil can ruin your engine. This will be very very expensive. I can vouch for this. (I told you all that I used to be young and stupid!)

Almost all modern cars have a "low oil" warning light somewhere in the dash. This will glow when you first start the car for a couple of seconds, until the oil begins to circulate. Watch this gauge and get used to how long it takes to turn off. If this interval seems to have got longer, you could be low on oil. Check it or get it checked.

Listen to your car as you drive. Once you get used to it, you will notice any new sounds or changes in sounds. But don't go straight to a mechanic and imitate the sound (easy prey). Some guy you know could probably tell you what it is. I have no training as a mechanic but I can tell the different sounds from timing chains, wheel bearings, engine bearings (bad, bad sign) and loose exhaust manifolds.

You spend a lot of money on a car. Take care of it.
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Old 12-17-2007, 12:17 PM   #28
classicman
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One thing I'll add to Zens good info above, DO NOT put your trust in and risk your engine... on a 25 cent lightbulb on your dashboard.
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Old 12-17-2007, 05:31 PM   #29
monster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud View Post
Yeah, I know they are easy tasks, and I could learn to do them. But dammit, I don't wanna!
Then pay someone directly to do it instead of paying more for your gas. Just as you would if you didn't want to clean your own house or wipe your own.....
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:31 PM   #30
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Quote:
You can spot a badly underinflated tire pretty easily. They bulge at the bottom. If one of your tires is a different shape to the others, check it or get it checked.
This is true, but unhelpfully incomplete.

A more likely and more pernicious situation is this: You can have a badly underinflated tire and not spot it at all, given the bulge at the bottom of many radial design tires.

Short answer: Get a tire pressure gauge, learn how to use it, and apply your newfound knowledge frequently. Appearance is a poor indicator of tire pressure.
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