Another dumb car maintenance question
How do I follow the recommended required maintenance if my mileage is way lower than average? By mileage or by time?
I.e., my car is 7 1/2 years old (90) months) old, but I only have 45,000 miles on it.
If you are a stickler for following the rules, it's whichever comes first.
I'd go by time in your case, but there are plenty of people here that know a lot more about cars than I do.
Under the hood, for the steel parts it isn't the years, it's the mileage. Rubber parts like belts and boots and hoses may deteriorate a little more, so look at them more carefully.
45K miles, heck, your original tires should still have some tread life left. Do the penny check on any tread groove that seems really pretty darn shallow.
Check your service manual, Cloud.
It will tell you the recommended time lapse between services, as well as the mileage.
My vehicle gets serviced every 3 months due to my mileage, I wish I was in your shoes :)
I have checked the service manual, and do try to follow the recommended service schedule, but the disparity between the months and mileage is confusing me.
@ UG: Gee, I've replaced my tires from the original set twice already. I do think that my driving qualifies for severe conditions, because of the heat and dust here, and because of frequent short trips.
But it sure has been a good little car. Not very stylin, perhaps, but even after it was repaired from an accident (Hallo Santa fe!) it bounced back perfectly.
you should change your oil every 3 months, cloud. short trips, dust, high heat all wear a motor. hoses and belt lives will be shorter too. have them checked every other oil change with a tire rotation. what kind of a car is it again?
Honda civic. I'm way past due for an oil change, too, and need to take it in, so I was trying to figure out what else to ask them to do.
Just tell them how much money you have, they'll know what to do.
er . . . thanks. I think.
Honda civic. I'm way past due for an oil change, too, and need to take it in, so I was trying to figure out what else to ask them to do.
Change the oil. Best also use a Honda filter.
Have all fluids checked (coolant, brake, transmission, windshield washer). Check tire pressure. Inspect brakes. Check wiper blades (which need replacement every three months if no using Honda blades and will probably last years is using Honda blades). Check battery. Check belts. If in dusty environment, check air filter.
If most driving is short distance (less than 4 miles in the entire day), then the exhaust system might be checked. Otherwise that should be good for at least 70,000 miles.
Very little actual maintenance is required. All checks are for failures that should not exist or that were created by some previous irresponsible mechanic. Standard technology cars require so little maintenance.
A US law. If some part fails and causes emission failures in the first 100,000 miles, then the automaker must replace that part for free.
Best also use a Honda filter.
But that will make her headlights slanty.
A US law. If some part fails and causes emission failures in the first 100,000 miles, then the automaker must replace that part for free.
I thought it's 8 years/80,00 miles, now?
Hmm. Unless you're bucketing over rocky roads each time you turn the key, eating tires like that, I'd be suspicious of your wheel alignment. You probably know the uneven/localized-wear signs of misaligned wheels; the eventual overall effect is it planes off the entire tread, after quite obviously starting on one edge or the other. If you have to steer to keep the car following the road, constantly having to hold it left or right, check alignment. Well aligned wheels also roll quieter on pavement.
Hmm. Unless you're bucketing over rocky roads each time you turn the key, eating tires like that, I'd be suspicious of your wheel alignment.
There is no wheel alignment on engineered designed cars. Whereas cars designed by bean counters still have adjusters that must be corrected every year, the engineer designed car has no such adjusters - no need for annual wheel alignment. This has been common knowledge for over 25 years and has been posted previously.
UG may be confusing wheel alignment with wheel balancing. If the wheel throws a weight, then that wheel will vibrate at higher speeds.
But that will make her headlights slanty.
Be very fearful of any car that winks at you.
what about from the accident? The alignment could have been affected from that. Obviously, one would assume that was taken care of, but three sets of tires in 70,000 miles is a little much.
I have a car that only weighs 1900 pounds. It's gone through two sets of tires in 44,000 miles (meaning almost no tread left on the front tires).
what about from the accident? The alignment could have been affected from that.
If alignment is off due to bent metal, then a solution is not to align to bent metal. The solution is to straighten or replace that bent metal.
No reason for any car to do less than 50,000 on a set of tires. For example, my first two Accords did 107,000 and 98,000 on the first tires. Two sets of tires in 44,000 implies a defect.
Same driver who got 107,000 on an Accord could never get more than 40,000 miles (per four tires) on a Chevy. But then the Chevy was designed poorly. Those three sets of radial tires were not the reason for poor tire life.
No reason for any car to do less than 50,000 on a set of tires. For example, my first two Accords did 107,000 and 98,000 on the first tires. Two sets of tires in 44,000 implies a defect.
...
.
I understand what you're saying,tw. I've had the alignment checked, and it's within specification. The question that wasn't asked is: What kind of driving have the tires been exposed to?
Hit the happy medium, Cloud. Like they say some stuff deteriorates with time, other stuff with mileage, but rather unsuprisingly, the manufacturer's recommendations are a little service-happy. (IMeuropeanO) ;)
I would go when you hit the halfway point (timewise) between time and when you envisage you will hit the average mileage for the current age. Or you could go with if you do half the average mileage, get a service when you done 1.5 times the recommended mileage for the next service. Of course these happy mediums requires a little math juggling, but you're smart. What "should" you have on the clock now? 84Kish?
I understand what you're saying,tw. I've had the alignment checked, and it's within specification. The question that wasn't asked is: What kind of driving have the tires been exposed to?
Clearly something is wrong if two tire sets only get 44,000 miles. Type of driving, two foot driving (one always suspended on the brake pedal), parking brake always on, etc. Something has caused unacceptable tire wear.
I think I've replaced half a set, twice. Probably extra wear and tear because of hot conditions, and because I don't keep them properly inflated. I've had flats on the sidewalls, and they keep telling me I can't just replace one, I need to replace both, either the front, or the back, at once.
I do NOT 2-foot drive!
I think I've replaced half a set, twice. Probably extra wear and tear because of hot conditions, and because I don't keep them properly inflated. I've had flats on the sidewalls, and they keep telling me I can't just replace one, I need to replace both, either the front, or the back, at once.
That should have resulted in a full size spare tire; replacing the 'donut' spare tire.
Depends on how worn the other (undamaged) tire is. If the undamaged tire has good tread, then little reason to replace it.
That should have resulted in a full size spare tire; replacing the 'donut' spare tire.
Depends on how worn the other (undamaged) tire is. If the undamaged tire has good tread, then little reason to replace it.
Full size
d spare does not fit in the space available in my "poorly designed" vehicle. hmm...
Also re: tire wear - there are tires now that are designed to last for only 40,000 miles.
I have a car that only weighs 1900 pounds. It's gone through two sets of tires in 44,000 miles (meaning almost no tread left on the front tires).
Do you drive up and down a mountain on dirt roads every day? That could be a contributor.
Do you drive up and down a mountain on dirt roads every day? That could be a contributor.
I drive up and down a mountain on very curvy roads every day. The dirt road is only about an eighth of a mile.
Look at the cars in the Indy and Daytona races. They can't even get 500 miles out of a set of tires.
so, I took car to get worked on today; oil change, state inspection, check all around; and guess what?
They said I need 4 new tires!
They said that all my treads are worn to 4/32". And that one tire has a bald spot, seeming to indicate "I'm putting my brakes on too hard." I told them I'd think about it. What do you think?
Bald spot = tire gone. Getting out of balance too. Don't try and push it, particularly if you expect rain. The tread pattern is there to help keep your car from hydroplaning; it gives water on the road someplace to go as your tires pass over it. If you hydroplane, you have no directional control. You're a hockey puck until your speed drops enough for the water under your tires to escape again and let your rubber touch the road.
Fortunately, not much rain in my part of the country. I'm going to do my research, locate a good tire I want, and buy 4 new. fuck it.
Don't dally, I heard tires are going to jump 35% soon.
Another dumb car maintenance question
My turn.
Why is the check engine light on and what can I do to correct the situation?
I'll preemptively ignore all the black tape and pull the plug suggestions; just trying to save you some time. :)
TIA.
Open the hood and see if the engine is still there.
In some cars the check engine light comes on at specific mileage intervals.
It takes 8 gallons of oil to make a tire. Or the human head weighs 8 pounds. Something about 8...
Open the hood and see if the engine is still there.--snip
Check!
My turn.
Why is the check engine light on and what can I do to correct the situation?
I'll preemptively ignore all the black tape and pull the plug suggestions; just trying to save you some time. :)
TIA.
The most common reason for the check engine light to come on is that the gas cap isn't tightened all the way. But that's not necessarily why
yours is on. The only way to know why the light is on is to take it in and have them hook it up to the computer. That alone will cost $70 in many places. I see ads for the code readers in places like
Harbor Freight Tools, but I think you still need to be able to look up the codes after you read them.
*sigh*
Yeah. I know. I have two diagnostic readers, for cars we no longer own. I don't have one for the Discovery (yet). I know how they work, I know what they can reveal. I also know that a low urgency warning like this (compared to the 710 light or the temp gauge) probably means that some sensor has failed to check in within the expected tolerances.
Which sensor? Who knows. It recently passed the emissions test. I checked the fluids, which needed topping off, but were not in the danger zone. I'm just weary that something else needs fixing. And this something is important, since it's our wheels to work.
As for looking up the codes after I read them, I expect either the manual with the reader, or the factory shop manual (2 inches thick, ~$75) or the intarwebz will provide that tidbit. Then, after all that, I'll need to get the widget and install it. Or them. Or, break my second best screwdriver prying out the old one, smash my knuckles, cuss and smack my head and cuss some more. Then get another specialized tool, hope I haven't marred the socket for the thingy, install it at last, and find out the light remains illuminated.
Then take my box of parts, and my bruised vehicle down to the local Land Rover mechanic (to whom I still owe money), leaving behind the scorched and smoking ruins of my mechanical pride and throw myself on the mercy of the garage. "Yeah, I need it by Monday. No, I don't have any more hundred dollar bills, why? Yes, I know where the bus stop is." I'm not looking forward to that conversation.
Bitter much? Not really. I'm just not recharged after my recent doubleheader with the fridge and the dryer. Shit, the washer was supposed to be next anyway.
is this meant to be a dig at me because I asked for help?
you big meanie!
If you car didn't just pass 30,000 or 60,000 or whatever miles as HLJ was saying, You can access the "on-board computer" yourself. All you need is a regular screwdriver and you can get the code. It will be a series of short and long flashes like morse code. If you have the Haynes manual for the car it explains what the code is and means. Actually, that info is probably online now too - I'm just too lazy to look it up. I've did it a lot with my previous car. Saved a lot of money when it turned out to be something really simple to fix.
In my Honda, the light came on at 30,000 miles, and it's coming on now at 45,000 miles. It begins with just a few seconds of flashing when the car is started, then stays on longer as the mileage approaches the landmark.
is this meant to be a dig at me because I asked for help?
you big meanie!
Good grief. What are you talking about? Are you seriously asking if I'm :stickpoke you because you asked for help? Ok, straight question, straight answer: no.
Big meanie indeed. Quotha!*
[SIZE="1"][COLOR="Silver"]* Look it up.[/COLOR][/SIZE]
Well then, I apologize. It seemed like it might have been a facetious question.
No, sorry. I was referencing the topic of the thread. You posted the thread, it had exactly the reference I was looking for so I quoted it, crediting you. There was nothing at all facetious about my post. Credit where credit is due. I asked my own dumb car maintenance question.
Indeed, with the help of the others here, including you for creating the helpful place to post my question, I believe I'm well on my way to fixing this problem. I benefitted from a bit of conversation about the light and the code reader, etc etc. Now I have an appt with the clerk at Auto Zone after work. They still provide this service, no doubt hoping to sell the part indicated as defective, while I'm there in the parking lot. I would be happy to give them the business and solve the problem.
My immediate concern was how to interpret the inscrutable light. Now I have a plan. No jab at you Cloud, really. Ok?
see apology above. Glad other people have dumb car questions!
Quotha!*
[SIZE="1"][COLOR="Silver"]* Look it up.[/COLOR][/SIZE]
Or PM me. :cool:
Apology accepted.
It was never needed, but I accept it nonetheless.
It's good to have a spare or two sometimes.
like money in the bank.
okay, well--not really.
but, still!
How come everyone else's check engine light is always some false alarm? Every time mine comes on, the car is dead within a few days if I haven't already taken it in because of shuddering or other obvious accompanying symptoms. I'd like a false alarm once in awhile.
it's not a false alarm. It usually means something in the emissions equipment is bad. Mine came on once for a vacuum leak. Some cars allow you to input a code via the ignition and the light will give up the code(s) by flashing. Online, Google OBD II diagnostic codes and you'll find the meaning, although it may or may not tell you what you need to know.
Primary culprits are gas caps, O2 sensors and vacuum leaks. Usually. The free diagnosis is a good thing, let them tell you the faults and if you can make sense of them, fix away. If not, I took mine to a mechanic friend in Cherry Hill (plug plug) at John's Car Care.
So is this a forum for useless griping - or where the diagnostic code number results in useful replies; ie a list of potential suspects? Those diagnostic codes always report a failure. Even when the car still starts, the diagnostic code still reports a failure. When the mechanic says nothing is wrong, find a mechanic that knows how that car works. What is the code number?
thanks for the tailpost there T-dub. We already covered that, but as your sig says- - - "tw Read? I only know how to write." Truer words were never spoken.
thanks for the tailpost there T-dub.
And the question was answered where? Oh. Another post from classicman that did not answer the question.
What were the diagnostic codes?
I gave the same advice or direction to assess the issue, not the answer. That, of course, can only be derived from the source - the vehicles on-board computer.
we have a forum for useless groping? (looks around) well? where is it? (heads on over)
Isn't all groping useful, at least in some small way?
And still not answered after so many replies to this post:
... where the diagnostic code number results in useful replies; ie a list of potential suspects? ... What is the code number?
There is no law requiring him to tell you - sheesh.
An update:
tw, all, I don't have a code number. The reader's display remained stubbornly blank when the tech connected it, when I connected it, when I slapped it around a little bit in an unproductive but cathartic attempt to relieve my frustration.
No code. Crap.
So, c-man, I'd really like to hear more about how to macguyver the code, semaphore style with a screwdriver, from my rig. I still know how to replace a sensor. I still don't know what code to look up.
*pretty please?*
I would personally think that if there's no code information from the reader, it doesn't matter if you try to read it in morse-code or some other magical way, it's still not going to have a number to give you.
BUT by random coincidence, just today in the oil-change place I overheard the mechanic's diagnosis of a woman's check-engine light. He said hers wasn't actually producing a code, either. His suggestion was to completely disconnect the battery and let it sit for a few minutes, then reconnect it. This would reset it, and he said he expected her light would stay off at that point. If it came back on, only then was there an actual problem with something.
That's the car version of "reboot and see if that helps".
I might at that. Sometimes the computer shows a fault code that fixes itself but won't reset the light. D/c'ing the battery might get rid of the light cheap and easy.
If not, what car (year and model) was it again? I can look up the code that will let you read the error on the dash. Usually, you turn the key on and off three times in succession and watch the Check Engine light. Or something like that. Look up the result
here.tw, all, I don't have a code number. The reader's display remained stubbornly blank when the tech connected it, when I connected it, when I slapped it around a little bit in an unproductive but cathartic attempt to relieve my frustration.
If a check engine light is on, then a DTC exists. Furthermore, many systems store previous codes even after the check engine light is extinguished. However, not all readers can access this history.
Once it was standard to have a flashing LED on the engine controller. Count the flashes to get that code. That option has been discontinued by many (if not all) automakers.
Refer to a URL provided by BrianR. Notice three different serial port standards. All must be supported by the reader. Another classic example of Ford vs GM 'we cannot cooperate' mentality. Possible is that your reader does not support the serial port for your vehicle. That reader also would not reset (clear) the check engine light.
Finally, in some states, a car must fail emission tests if the check engine light is on. In those states, the reason for that check engine light must be corrected to obtain an inspection sticker.
I own a Nissan and there is NO READER Needed. It is a stand alone system. The computer is located under the dash by the console. Turn the ONLY screw all the way to the right, wait a few seconds and then turn it back to the left.
This activates the system and the "check engine" light will flash accordingly. It will flash rapidly (short burst) then slowly (long) this lets you know what the code is. For example three short flashes and then 6 long flashes means a code of 36. *note* there may be multiple codes and the codes may have 3 digits instead of 2. REMEMBER to reset the computer when you are done. All the instructions to access the on-board computer are also in the Haynes or Chilton manual
Take that code and look it up online or in the Haynes or Chilton manual (which EVERY car owner should have). It will tell you what the problem is and typically how to correct it. I have done this many times.
Again, I prefaced this with I own a Nissan - I'm not sure how this relates to your vehicle because of the make/model where it was manufactured... and so on.
UG: the second link is useful, the first not so much, as it is not directed toward the consumer.
Still trying to find good tires. Went to Sam's today with what I thought was a perfect tire choice--wrong speed rating. fuck.
And yes, if I get them installed at Sam's, I'll have to take them to get aligned.
Eep! How fast do you drive?
If she's like most drivers around here, about five miles below the speed limit.
My car needs a new tire (one blew out the sidewall). I'm still looking for a shop that sells Maxxis Tires. I thought I had one but they can't seem to locate the ONE tire that fits my car that the computer swears is in stock.
There is one other shop that claims to carry Maxxis, but I still have to get out toward the airport to find them. Likely, they won't be open until Monday anyway.
Anyway, as soon as I can afford $1000, I'm switching to All-Terrain tires that are easier to find, such as Bridgestone Duelers or something. Those V-rated speed-demon, lo-pro tires are too hard to find and too expensive.
hey! it's four miles above the speed limit, thank you!
Don't drive that fast, but want to make sure I order the right kind of tires. They told me the ones I had picked out did not match my car. Still researching . . .
They mean that because your car CAN do 120 MPH you have to have tires rated at 120 MPH. So what car is it?
The tires I believe are appropriate for my car have a load/speed rating of 86H. The ones I was going to buy have a speed rating of 86T.
I went in to Sam's to order these tires, because they got top ratings at Consumer Reports, but are only available at buying clubs. Michelins. they have a $60 off special, too. But they told me the speed rating is different. Do you know if it makes that much difference? I'm positive the size is correct.
H rating is 130 mph maximum.
T rating is 118 mph maximum.
Do you drive that fast?
There is no law that says you can't put on any goddamn tire you want.
of course I don't go that fast,
but I don't want to make an expensive mistake,
in my ignorance, which is vast.
:D
the second link is useful, the first not so much, as it is not directed toward the consumer.
The first link has the three indicators that wheel alignment is out. Second link repeats what was posted previously:
But as we all know, there are a lot of vehicles that have no factory adjustments for front camber, caster, rear camber or toe. ...
The 1995 Chrysler ..., for example, have no factory front camber adjustments. Chrysler says no adjustment is needed because these cars are built to such exacting tolerances.
If alignment is out, then a bent part must be replaced. That second link suggests leaving the bent parts in and replacing other parts with after-market replacements. IOW realign to defective (bent) parts. That is called a "Kludge".
Bending alignment is extremely rare. But when it happens, the more responsible shops replace a bent part; do not install third party parts to 'fix' the still defective part.
Are you driving routinely above 100 MPH? Then most any tire is more than sufficient. However some manufacturers (Bridgestone) have a long history of making defective tires, killing people, denying it, and refusing to replace those defects. So that you don't know this, Firestone relabeled their products under the Bridgestone name.
When it comes to reliability, product integrity, and good value for every dollar, Michelin has long been the industry standard. For example, in the 1970s when premature tire failure was occurring typically on 60% of all tires; that same number for Michelin was only 2%. Yes, that premature failure rate was around sixty percent.
Bridgestone did the same lying in the 1990s with tires that were crashing SUVs. Why were those tires failing? Even after Bridgestone said they would install a fifth ply to stop the problem AND changed markings on tires from "four ply" to "five ply"; Bridgestone continued to make the same defective four ply tires. Bridgestone / Firestone has a repeat history of making defective tires - then lying about it.
Flagrantly lying about it. No other major tire manufacturer has a worse reputation. Killing people, knowing it, and refusing to fix the problem. Previous lies involved the “Firestone 500”.
the 3000-mile oil change may not be needed for your car.
Details
here.BTW, thanks Urbane Guerilla for the tips on wheel alignment. New tires, wheel alignment, yay!
New tires, wheel alignment, yay!
Ask for the computer printout (numbers) from the alignment machine for both before and after the alignment is done. They are required to provide those printouts only if you ask for them. Printout should provide numbers for both front and rear wheels AND what tolerances were being used. Those numbers may expose or report other useful facts both historical and should future problems occur.
I want to thank everyone for their help with my car stuff. I really appreciate it. :thumb:
[COLOR="White"]I knew there was SOME use for men. [/COLOR]
yabbut did you get the readout?;)
I asked, but did not get it (because I would have to wait for it, and I ran out of time).
I asked, but did not get it (because I would have to wait for it, and I ran out of time).
Wait for it? The tech has those numbers before he even raises a wrench. However, when selling something unnecessary, then stalling on anything written is a common technique. Why would you wait for something that the tech must have before he makes any adjustments? Many auto service places sell this alignment along side other useless tasks such as tuneups and 'lube job'. Tuneups and 'lube jobs' both have long been eliminated. But some still pay for that service also.
Best you not know that nothing was or could be changed.
Thread resurrection time!
I happened across
this site and thought it would be appropriate here.