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Old 07-03-2015, 07:51 PM   #1
BigV
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DIY Electric Water Heater Installation

Watch this space.
















Ok, really, tomorrow I'm replacing Twil's water heater. It's sprung a small leak, and she's already taken delivery of a comparable unit. It's in the back of the car, waiting for me.

I've never done a water heater installation before. Washer, dryer, dishwasher, oven/range. I've rerouted plumbing, installed toilets, tub/shower fixtures, new sinks, etc. No water heaters.

I reckon it has some plumbing, some minor electrical, plenty of cleanup, testing, etc. Doesn't look super hard. But, I only have one day off and if I mess up, she'll have no hot water in the house. Yikes.

Anyhow, I'm putting together my toolkit. Pipe wrenches, tubing cutter, measuring tape, channel locks, stud finder, hammer, impact driver, reciprocating saw, pipe tape, crescent wrench, hacksaw blades for saw, file, emery cloth, wire brush. asbestos blanket. vise grips, level. my camera, of course. gloves. wonderbar.

don't have but will need new torch, solder, flux. fasteners for earthquake straps, earthquake straps, insulating blanket, some kind of low platform / cinder blocks.


I'll fill this thread with pictures of the project.

What am I missing?
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:27 PM   #2
sexobon
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If it isn't already there, a length of garden hose to direct water where you want it to go should you operate the drain valve and/or relief valve; also, a collection pan/bucket. Possibly hot water pipe insulation.
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Old 07-03-2015, 11:35 PM   #3
BigV
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good suggestions, thank you.

packed up, leaving now.
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:12 PM   #4
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I have faith in you. You got this dicked.
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Old 07-04-2015, 03:35 PM   #5
BigV
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Thanks brother.

Water heater is out now. Compiling list for reinstallation of water heater.

I'll need the connection lines, a new gate or ball valve, more pipe dope, straps, pan, etc. Working on the list now. Pics to follow.
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Old 07-05-2015, 11:11 AM   #6
BigV
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Water heater installed. I finished the install kinda late. Resolving a couple of leaks in my plumbing work, that took much more time and effort. I still have a couple very minor slow drips dammit. But I have to work this morning, so, I'll get to them next time.

Hard line plumbing is tough. I guess with enough experience, getting it right the first time is more common, but I had to take apart some of my work more than once. VERY frustrating.

I think one of my problems was working with what's called a close. It's a kind of pipe nipple with threads on each end, and no unthreaded pipe in the middle. Tightening them... What to do? The only place to grip that piece is right on the threads. That seems like a good way to make it leak. And I had a regular four inch nipple to gate valve connection leak. That one is still leaking, but from dripdripdrip to one drip per 80 seconds. Endurable until next time.

Of course, cleaning up the water spilled from the removal of the pipes to get another shot at the leaks slowed things down a lot. And partway through a dropped my droplight and broke it. So the project was finished by flashlight.

Well, I did take lots of pictures, but as you might guess, they're on the camera, and this post is from my phone, so no pics... Yet.
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Old 07-05-2015, 11:38 AM   #7
xoxoxoBruce
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Nipple? Gate valve? You're running pipe rather than tubing to/from a water heater? You're a glutton for punishment. Brass, iron, galvanized?

To tighten a close nipple the wrench goes on the fitting it screws into for tightening, not the nipple itself. That will tighten both ends as long as what the other end screws into is stationary. If not, a wrench on each thingy the nipple is screwing into. Pipe thread, being tapered, lets you crank in down more after it's tight enough to not leak. This allows turning a fitting to line up with the next link in the chain, because you never want to back up, and makes sure both ends are tight enough.
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Old 07-05-2015, 04:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigV View Post
four inch nipple
I think I know her...
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Old 07-05-2015, 05:02 PM   #9
xoxoxoBruce
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Oh, and the droplight is a lie, don't drop it. I speak from many many experiences.
However, I haven't broken one since I starting using the Compact Fluorescent, dairy queen looking, bulbs. It was always the filament in the bulb that broke because the bulb is caged, and the Compact Fluorescent will take the shock. Granted they take a couple minutes to reach full brightness but on the plus side they don't get hot. That's a blessing in cramped quarters.
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Old 07-05-2015, 05:45 PM   #10
zippyt
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Cf, is the way to go for drop lights , true they dont get Hot , but will take the chill off my older nuckles when its cold , also they dont have that "shit im BLIND!" brightness .
I have been eyeing a LED drop light but they are Pretty bright for some of the rat holes i crawl around in
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:02 PM   #11
Gravdigr
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Anytime I have to work on anything outside in the cold, I use the old stand-by halogen work light.

Fantastic heat production.
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