It's dead Jim, PC help required, others may also opine.

[zippyt]

get a bigger one , as in if it was a 250watt get a 450 , More POWER !!!!!!!
Oh and make sure it has Leds in it so it will look cool at nite !!!!

[tw]

Originally Posted by Beest

So is that definitive on the PSU ?

Yeph. That type of failure is typically a manufacturing defect. The defect may have existed many months ago. It was not a switch. A coin cell battery. Heat. A surge. Mishandling. The wife. Mystery currents from the plug. Failed motherboard. Defective BIOS. Bad CPU. Undersized video card. Intermittently getting loose wire. Dust. Undersized supply. Defective disk drive. Stuck fan. Or many suspects blamed on wild speculation to justify replacing parts. Another part of the supply that more often fails did not fail in yours. You had a failure of a tiny supply that should rarely fail. Sometimes, that entire 5VSB supply is only a single integrated circuit. A part that typically costs about $0.90.

Now, replace the supply. Ignore all discussion about watts as taught by advertising, hearsay, and A+ Certified computer techs. That supply should list an amp numbers for each voltage. A replacement supply must meet or exceed each DC amp number.

Of course, a new supply must have similar connectors, screw holes, and dimensions. Those dimensions are usually industry standard. Most important are ampere numbers for each DC voltage. Simply meet or exceed the number for each DC voltage.

A supply costing less than $60 is typically missing essential functions. That does not say a greater than $60 supply is better. That only says anyone selling a supply for $40 should be selling it for near zero profit. Or the supply must be missing essential functions.

When installed, one simple test will confirm the new supply is not defective. A defective supply can still boot a computer. But about one minute of labor quickly identifies some defects before its warranty expires.

[Beest]

any suggestions on where to look, or good brands?

$49 for a refurb, no detailed voltage info.
http://www.discountelectronics.com/i...detail&p=13852

or
http://www.amazon.com/Original-Genui...N%3DB005W39F7O

[zippyt]

new egg .com has some good prices

[Beest]

Originally Posted by zippyt

new egg .com has some good prices

Newegg was one of the first places I went, but they are not replacement slisted as compatable with my PC, I have to figure out which is the right one.

This one has 1000's of postive reviews and won some sort of award, but ahs a 20+4 pin connection, not 24 like mine, does this mean it won't fit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817153023

Newegg specs do include currents, so will ahve to look what's on my old one, guess I can take this out now.

This is the hot deal right now, still has a 20+4 pin connector.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...s-_-17-139-027

[glatt]

When I got a new power supply, I just took the old one down to Best Buy. I walked over to the help desk guys and asked if the one I had selected was compatible, and they let me open the box of the new one and compare the size and the connectors. There were a couple extra connectors I didn't need or use, but it works great.

I'm sure Newegg is cheaper.

[Beest]

I crowd sourced this on one of the big paintball boards, lot's of paintballers are also uber geeks.

Several recommendations for Corsair brand.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139026

The advantage to Best buy is you can see it's the same size with the holes in the right places.

[glatt]

Originally Posted by Beest

The advantage to Best buy is you can see it's the same size with the holes in the right places.

Exactly. You want the fan on the correct surface so it doesn't wind up pressed against a neighboring component that blocks off the airflow. You want the outlet and any switches to be lined up with the holes in your case, although you can cut holes into your case as needed.

I seem to remember paying $70 for mine. Your $45 is a better deal if it fits. But for me, paying an extra $25 to open the box before purchase and be certain it will work and will only require one trip to the store is not anything to look down your nose at. YMMV

[tw]

Originally Posted by Beest

The advantage to Best buy is you can see it's the same size with the holes in the right places.

Some disassemble computers to sell the parts. On Ebay, you may find the exact same supply for less money.

[Beest]

Originally Posted by tw

Some disassemble computers to sell the parts. On Ebay, you may find the exact same supply for less money.

Indeed, used allegedly working oem parts $25-$30 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=....c0.m270.l1313

hmm.

[zippyt]

Ya get what ya pay for, I Hate Used "Working" electronic parts , they all ways seem to fail

[tw]

Originally Posted by zippyt

I Hate Used "Working" electronic parts ,

I don't. Most electronic parts fail with infant mortality. Beyond infant mortality means failures are infrequent to virtually non-existent. Of course that is for the type of electronics. Semiconductors do not wear out. Mechanical can wear with age.

Those Ebay offers are a best solution as long as the seller has a good reputation.

[Beest]

Yeah, Posting from it now.

I bought the new egg one, exceeds all the specs. , a bit of an offer and rebate will actually make it less in cost
If it makes it to the deep end of the bath tub should be a good deal.

[tw]

Originally Posted by Beest

Yeah, Posting from it now.

Now, confirm the new supply really is good. Normal is for a defective supply to still boot and run a computer.

Repeat the previous multimeter procedure to obtain those three digit voltage numbers. However, before measuring the red, orange, and yellow wires, first setup the machine to actually see a supply defect.

IOW download from the internet, while playing complex graphics (ie a movie), while searching the hard drive, while powering some USB devices, while reading a CD-Rom, etc. When the system is multitasking, measure any one red, orange, and yellow wires. Then report voltages from the six wires to see if the supply is sufficient. So that the defect need not become obvious after its warranty expires.

[Beest]

Originally Posted by tw

Now, confirm the new supply really is good. Normal is for a defective supply to still boot and run a computer.

Repeat the previous multimeter procedure to obtain those three digit voltage numbers. However, before measuring the red, orange, and yellow wires, first setup the machine to actually see a supply defect.

IOW download from the internet, while playing complex graphics (ie a movie), while searching the hard drive, while powering some USB devices, while reading a CD-Rom, etc. When the system is multitasking, measure any one red, orange, and yellow wires. Then report voltages from the six wires to see if the supply is sufficient. So that the defect need not become obvious after its warranty expires.

Bit of a challenge where it's sighted but I'll give it a go.

I tested the green grey and purple, with it just on , bit nothing much else happening. green was low - 0.02 V, purple and grey 5.02 V