Someone Who Knows About Cars - HELP!

[ZenGum]

Wut she said.


What would be a good lubricant to use? I know with locks you want graphite or a similar specialist powder. Some hinges prefer a light machine oil. I learned as a kid that putting in both types of lubricant is not a good idea.

But yeah, sticking accelerator cable? bit of a worry.

[tw]

Originally Posted by ZenGum

What would be a good lubricant to use? I know with locks you want graphite or a similar specialist powder.

Graphite is not good for locks. It tends to wash lubricant out of the tumblers. Then months later, nothing keeps moisture out of those tumblers. Moisture freezes the lock.

I use a grease that is water resistant. Once applied, then locks should never need lubrication again. One of the best is wheel bearing grease. Most all good greases are based in lithium. Some are more water resistant than others.

Cables typically use a plastic sheath that is self lubricating. Some lubricating oils actually act like sand on those self lubricating plastics. Generally I might touch a dab of water resistant grease where the cable enters it sheath. Just to keep water out. But for the most part, a best solution is to do nothing. To not contaminate that self lubricating plastic.

Meanwhile the subversive extremist is still posting his usual cheapshots. Contributing nothing useful in this (or other) threads. Even discussing dicks here as if that had any purpose besides posting cheapshots. Why do UG and classicman both do this? Wacko extremists.

SamIam - you must always be able to rotate that curved piece counter clockwise with your fingers. Motion must always be smooth. The spring must always and smoothly return that curved piece clockwise. As long as all motion is smooth, then a binding throttle cable probably does not exist.

You can also rev an idling car engine by simply rotating that curved piece. Your only concern is keeping fingers and hair out of any exposed fan belts and away from the radiator fan. That radiator fan can suddenly turn on when you do not expect it. Nothing else in there should remove body parts.

All are strongly encouraged to do, at least once, what plthijinx has recommended. Every driver should understand how his car performed when engine power is lost. In particular, how steering works and how many times brakes can be applied before power assist is lost.

[glatt]

Originally Posted by tw

Cables typically use a plastic sheath that is self lubricating. Some lubricating oils actually act like sand on those self lubricating plastics. Generally I might touch a dab of water resistant grease where the cable enters it sheath. Just to keep water out. But for the most part, a best solution is to do nothing. To not contaminate that self lubricating plastic.

The cable to the dead man's handle on my lawnmower broke on Saturday. It had been sticking in the previous season so the lawnmower wouldn't shut off when you let go of the handle. No way to remove the cable and clean it. But I did try cleaning the inch or two exposed portion the best I could, and I shit you not, spraying WD-40 on the exposed cable. The WD-40 loosened it up so that it worked again. But then after a year or so, the cable snapped over this past weekend. Couldn't start the mower. So I got some "bailing wire" and manually clamped the throttle open so that the safety system was bypassed and the lawnmower, once started, could only be shut off by taking the wire off the spark plug. Works great now.

I debated keeping it that way forever, but I've already placed an order with Toro for a replacement cable. Don't want to get in trouble if someone cuts off a hand.