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Old 10-20-2006, 06:19 PM   #1
busterb
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USB 2 Hub

With all my new goodies, I need more usb 2 plug-ins. So I don't have get on floor to swap. Also getting short on AC outlets. Looking at this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817111402

Don't think I really need it because all my things won't be running at same time. Something more on the lines of a splitter, maybe.
Thanks bb
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Old 10-20-2006, 10:32 PM   #2
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link ain't presently up

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817111402

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Old 10-20-2006, 10:50 PM   #3
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To eliminate those cabling problems, a solution used:
Dalco 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub

First, these four USB ports appear on the computer's front panel - easy access. Second, this USB hub requires no AC power connection - nor do you pay for that power brick - because USB is powered directly by computer's power supply. Third, the hub makes one connection to an existing USB port - no motherboard slots are used and no special software configuation needed. Four, since power is from computer, then USB hub need not remain powered when not using computer and need not be separately powered on or off.

Finally, I have always had the best of service from Dalco even when problems were directly traceable to Gateway Computer 'games'.
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Old 10-20-2006, 10:58 PM   #4
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Buster, remember your Power Squid thread? Good info there.
http://cellar.org/showthread.php?t=9914
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Old 10-21-2006, 09:48 AM   #5
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[quote=tw]To eliminate those cabling problems, a solution used:
Dalco 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub

First, these four USB ports appear on the computer's front panel - easy access. Second, this USB hub requires no AC power connection - nor do you pay for that power brick - because USB is powered directly by computer's power supply. Third, the hub makes one connection to an existing USB port - no motherboard slots are used and no special software configuation needed. Four, since power is from computer, then USB hub need not remain powered when not using computer and need not be separately powered on or off.
QUOTE]
Thanks tw. It looks good. Your info is from? Have one perhaps.
xob, I forgot where the squid was. Tnxs
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Old 10-21-2006, 10:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busterb
Thanks tw. It looks good. Your info is from? Have one perhaps.
Installed it. Its been working in those locations for years now without problems. In one case, a static electric discharge was so large to harm the digital camera - and USB hub was not harmed.

The squid - just a power strip - has been seen for sale in a Bed and Bath chain store for $15. Simpler are power strips that have an essential circuit breaker. Sold in Wal-Mart or Home Depot for $3.50.
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Old 10-22-2006, 04:24 PM   #7
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Thanks, tw
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Old 10-26-2006, 04:25 PM   #8
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[quote=tw] First, these four USB ports appear on the computer's front panel - easy access. Second, this USB hub requires no AC power connection - nor do you pay for that power brick - because USB is powered directly by computer's power supply. Third, the hub makes one connection to an existing USB port - no motherboard slots are used and no special software configuation needed. Four, since power is from computer, then USB hub need not remain powered when not using computer and need not be separately powered on or off.QUOTE]

Wish I had read that a little closer. I overlooked the part about using existing USB port. Don't think will drill a hole in case for cord. Am I missing something here?
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Old 10-26-2006, 08:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busterb
Wish I had read that a little closer. I overlooked the part about using existing USB port. Don't think will drill a hole in case for cord. Am I missing something here?
Some USB ports can remain inside the case. I usually route USB cable through existing holes (in back of all cases) and then plug into a rear USB port.

Drilling a hole in that alumium is easy. Simply put a towel inside the case and vacuum that towel before removing it. Also useful is making a 'basket' of duct tape inside the hole. Routing the cable is not difficult.
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Old 10-27-2006, 07:59 AM   #10
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IF my brain was working, would have thought of a usb pci card.
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Old 10-27-2006, 09:26 PM   #11
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How do you know how much total load you can put on the USB ports? I keep seeing USB powered doodads that make me wonder when enough is too much?
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Old 10-27-2006, 10:53 PM   #12
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How do you know how much total load you can put on the USB ports?

I was woundering about that as well , i have seen ALL kinds of useless stuff , lava lamps , fans , coffie cup heaters , and even a mini George Forman grill ??
How much is TOO much ??
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Old 10-27-2006, 11:14 PM   #13
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i have seen ALL kinds of useless stuff

like this stuff , most useless , some Interesting http://www.thinkgeek.com/interests/usb/?cpg=nbi
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Old 10-28-2006, 07:57 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippyt
How do you know how much total load you can put on the USB ports?
USB solved many problems with the RS-232 ports. For example USB devices can be powered from that serial port and all connections / disconnections can be performed 'hot'. All devices today (including the power supply inside all computers) must neither cause damage nor interruption of devices upstream during a short circuit. And USB addresses another problem (irrelevant to this thread) solved by differential mode signaling.

I'm doing this from memory so take them as ballpark numbers. The USB port can provide 100 ma to each port or 1 USB load. All USB devices start in this 'low power' mode. A USB device must than ask for more power while only using less than 100 ma. USB port then enables more power and USB device then shifts to a 'high power' mode. Designs / standards have already determined what is sufficient and what therefore can work. Most USB devices reviewed at IC level have two power levels - 100 ma and 500 ma - even though USB devices can ask for various intermediate power levels.

If a USB device draws too much power, then USB port typically informs (interrupts) computer which then orders power limited. Suspend mode is typically less than 1 ma. To a user, the USB port has failed with a message about a 'surge'.

Above describes a USB device powered via its USB plug. USB can be daisy chained to operate up to 128 devices. Obviously too many devices daisy chained from one USB root port might overwhelm that root port - cause excessive power consumption and shut down that port.

So we have alternatives. Each hub (that daisy chains out to other USB ports) can be self powered. A self powered hub will not draw too much power from the root port. Many self powered hubs use power bricks (wall warts).

A solution for busterb solves that wall wart problem by drawing power, instead, directly from computer's power supply. Obviously this solution also costs less money. It also puts USB ports on computer front panel where connecting and disconnecting is easiest. Another alternative is a PCI card which then puts USB connectors on a more congested IO port in back and requires software configuration (which normally - but not always - would occur automatically). Both solutions solve wall wart congestion.

Meanwhile, USB devices can also provide their own power - such as cameras. Then USB port would not have to provide high power.

USB must be designed so that user can make or break connections 'hot'. 'Hot popping' is involves special design considerations - be it a serial port or a computer PCI card. "Hot popping' permitted by USB. For example, if a device first connects or if a device requests high power mode, then a sudden inrush of current might cause overcurrent. It might even cause a computer crash - if not designed accordingly. USB design makes 'load changing while hot' irrelevant to users.

Some have upgraded their software or connected some devices only to suffer the 'power surge' message and a USB port shutdown. Well, some designs are too subjective - and therefore did not provide sufficient margin of error. Some upgraded software responded too quickly to an excessive 'inrush' current - programmers who don't learn about hardware realities. IOW the user is now at the mercy of an analog world, confused by too many without a full hardware / software grasp, blaming others, and leaving a user with few solutions.

The 'power surge' failure message is not AC electric. It is a USB subsystem doing something often traceable to a problem you can only fix by speculation and shotgunning. USB so simple that when it fails, you have few solutions. But USB is made so simple that such failures should be rare or directly traceable to a human buying only on price.

One related topic not relevant here - USB 1.1 verses USB 2.0. QED - which I also will not define.
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Old 10-28-2006, 04:46 PM   #15
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Thanks Tw for yet another informitive post , I always woundered about that ,

Now USB 1 v USB 2 , whats the deal ??
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