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#1 |
Your Bartender
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Philly Burbs, PA
Posts: 7,651
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new flash setup
There's only one thing wrong with my Nikon Coolpix 995 camera: the internal flash is dinky. I've been wanting to get a cable and bracket assembly to allow for an external flash with a tiltable head more power, and now here it is:
(jeez. I just realized I still have pics form UT's birthday that I haven't posted. I have processing I want to do.) |
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#2 |
-◊|≡·∙■·∙≡|◊-
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Parts unknown.
Posts: 4,081
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Its probably just me but something about that pic harkens me back to the tumor thread.
Sorry ![]()
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#3 |
Professor
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 1,481
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SD
Nice setup. As you know I have a 995 myself and it is back to normal. What brand of flash is that?
My real question is: how did you take the picture? Does this camera have an 'Out of Body' feature that I don't know about? |
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#4 |
Your Bartender
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Philly Burbs, PA
Posts: 7,651
|
Jesus, doesn't anybody read the instructions anymore???? If you had consulted your manual, you would know that, in the event you require a photograph of the camera itself, you simply scroll into sub-menu Q and active the tim-space tunneling feature.
![]() Well in this case I had taken it to work to show my boss, because he had been wondering if his old flash that he had could work on his 995. (Not a coincidence that he has one too--I setlled on the 995 after trying his out.) So of course I just used his camera. But if that hadn't happened, I still have my Olympus 460 around somewhere--a nice little camera if you don't need higher than 1.3 megapixel or all the manual goodies the 995 gives. The flash itself is a Vivitar 283, a classic model. I actually already had this for use with my stereo camera, and I had to think about whether to buy a new flash or use this one. The bracket is a "Flash Jack". The Nikon AS-E900 cable hooks the flash into the camera, and I have also added a "safe sync" from Wein to regulate the flash voltage--many flashes, especially older ones from when SLRs didn't have computer chips in them, can fry a modern camera. You can get flashes that are "Nikon dedicated" and will talk to the camera to determine what flash power is needed. This one is not, but it has its own sensor, so you just have to set the sensor on the flash and set the camera to the correct aperture in aperture-priority mode. (It's much simpler than it sounds.) I could have gotten a basic Nikon-compatible flash under $100, but I decided to go for power instead--Vivitar rates this one good at a distance of 43 ft. |
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