This is the blog of a reporter in Iraq. Looks promising.
http://back-to-iraq.com/
edit - found a nice description of the site on warblogging.com:
Christopher Allbritton, the Internet's first very own war correspondent, has gotten his Syrian visa, he reports on Back To Iraq. He is currently in Ankara, but will be departing for Syria — and then the Syrian-Iraqi border — tomorrow morning.
Chris is travelling to Iraqi Kurdistan to report on the war in an independent fashion, outside the controlling influence of the US Army or major media organisations. His trip is entirely funded by his readers, who have so far donated more than ten thousand dollars. Panisonic, Motorola and other companies have donated equipment such as a laptop and satellite telephone.
Chris e-mails reports from the field to those who have donated, and those reports then get posted to his weblog. He hopes to be in Duhok or Erbil in northern Iraq by tomorrow night.