Ehhh..... I can set aperture and shutter speed in my sleep. But focus can be very finicky on some SLRs. And even when you're taking "artsy" shots you sometimes want or need to shoot quickly. I wouldn't turn my nose up at an autofocus unit as long as it has manual override.
But as far as all-manual goes, I learned on a Pentax K1000 that I still have, though I don't use it much. I'd say that's a great choice if you can find one in good condition.
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