Vim and hand-coding HTML is the only way to go. Adding CSS to the mix is awesome and can be done easily and bit-by-bit.
Most of the Cellar is old-style and doesn't support a lot of CSS. But people in the know say that if CSS were properly implemented for vBulletin (which runs the Cellar), it could save about a third of the transfer time, because there is so much composition HTML in the software.
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