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I thought it was a phenomenal film ... so much so that I bought the DVD (you should rent it - the documentary about the making of the film tells sooo much about what the directors were thinking on the set).
Yes, it's very slow moving, but the film is supposed to be, as someone mentioned earlier, thought-provoking and introspective/reflective. The movie bumbles along at the pace of real life - and sometimes when you're somewhere you absolutely do not want to be, moments seem to drag on into eternity.
I will say it's probably more focused on presenting an absolutely stunning cinema-scape than trying to be a mainstream blockbuster (clearly). I feel that a lot of people are exceedingly curious about some cultures, asian ones in particular. To that end, it does a good job of showing the quirky nature of Japanese folks, I think.
Dunno.
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