Attachment Troubles?
 

Hmm...I can't seem to successfully attach a pic to a message, here. I have followed the instructions, and the pic *is* under the byte size limit.

Help?

Are you hitting the preview button first? Can't do that, or else the pic won't upload.

Yeah, and it looks like the pic is uploading, if the progress bar is to be believed. Just doesn't show up, either in the preview or on the final posted message (I deleted it three times when the pic didn't show up).

When I used to upload pics, I found it best to proofread what I wrote directly on the reply page, then hit the "submit" button. If I made an oopsie on the message, I would then go back and edit the message (which keeps the photo in the post w/o a problem).

Let's see...

It works for me!

Synths in 3D
 

Well, heck, let me try it again...here's a R/B color anaglyph I made of my synths last night.

...and it did indeed work when I did not preview the image, as sycamore said it would.

Thanks, guys! (BTW, you'll need 3D glasses for this, red over left eye. Hope you guys saved yours from the last cheesy 3D film fest)

Yeah, for some reason, if you try to preview a post with an attachment, the attachment won't upload. It's one of the Cellar's few flaws, along with the fact that attachments will not show up in blogview.

Maybe Cellar should market 3D glasses and limit all photography/ IODs to 3D?

Not bad... what software did you use to create it?

I'm dabbling in stereo photography (with a Stereo Realist camera I bought off ebay), tho I can't post much till I have some time to monkey with the slide scanner at work.

Images 3D, a Freeware program I found at http://home.cogeco.ca/~grichter1/ .

I'm using a Sony Mavica (first generation, thus the not so great resolution and 640 x 480 limitation) on a tripod. I shoot two pics, one from a left perspective, one from a right perspective (leaving the front toe of the tripod stationary as I rotate the rest of the tripod some experimental distance for the second shot). The software then lets you layer the two together and adds the red/blue tinting to make the traditional anaglyph. It also does stereo pairs (like for use with a stereoptican viewer) and interlaced pairs (for use with LCD 3D glasses).

It requires some tinkering in order to get the two pics lined up right, and another program I used as a demo had some features which made this much easier, but it wouldn't allow you to save, wrote "demo" all over your preview, and cost $100.00. For the cost savings, this program seems to do pretty much all the other one did, it is just a little more tricky to do the lineup of the pair.

It would be nice to have some sort of device that produces simultaneous stereo pairs to work with, though. How much did you give for the camera you got, and why slides for scanning? Why not prints?

Try Pokescope. I just bought the "basic" version for $30; the "pro" version is more, but I forget how much. I have used the demo of the basic version and was happy with the results. (The demo won't save or print, though.) It'll produce pairs for either parallel or cross-eyed viewing, or anaglyphs.

It's a Stereo Realist camera. I bought it on ebay for $90. These cameras were manufactured starting in the late 1940s. The peak popularity was sometime in the 1950s, but David White Co. continued to make the Realist into the late 1960s I believe. (Other companies, including Kodak, marketed their own models.)

The camera will shoot any kind of 35mm film, but the images have a nonstandard width, so they can't be handled by normal cutting machines at your local drug store etc. Some folks shoot negative film and then print it, but most use slide film, partly out of tradition, partly for aesthetic reasons (the slides in a lighted viewer really are very striking, plus increased color saturation in slide film), and convenience: all you have to do is have the film processed but not cut, then you can cut it yourself into little chips and put them into cardboard mounts.

There are also a couple cameras out there (one from Vivitar and one from Loreo) that you can get for less than $100 that are basically point-and-shoot cameras that take two exposures at once, but they split the traditional 35mm frame in half, so the film can be processed and printed anywhere. The camera itself is, like most point & shoot cameras, easier to use, but with less flexibility.

If you're interested, check out www.stereoscopy.com and the photo-3d and 3D-StereoviewXchange mailings lists, both hosted at groups.yahoo.com.