The Cellar - Touring Uzbekistan as a tourist

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- Cities and Travel (http://cellar.org/forumdisplay.php?f=19)

- - Touring Uzbekistan as a tourist (http://cellar.org/showthread.php?t=33246)

limey

12-29-2017 09:42 AM

Touring Uzbekistan as a tourist

So it's a bit different visiting these parts with Mr Limey in tow ... and a bit the same.
We checked in our luggage whereas I used to travel hand-baggage only (here in winter for tourism required more clothing) and I am still mildly amazed that it arrived when we did given that we were late landing in Istanbul so had to sprint to the Tashkent gate where boarding had allegedly started.
I am speaking English much more to keep Mr Limey in the loop so am aware of being considerably more conspicuous as a Westerner.
But the first day routine of catching up on a little sleep, changing money (UZS 8,000 or so to USD 1), and buying local sim card each for the phone (USD 12 for network registration, 5GB of data and 2 hours of local calls) was my standard practice.
We also bought some groceries to stock up the fridge in our hotel room and other necessities: USD 5.50 for bread, fruit juice, sausage, loo roll and razors. The shop gave me the picked gherkin i requested from the vat of clearly home-preserved produce as a free gift! Another USD 5.50 for 2.5 litres of beer and a bottle of very pleasant Georgian-style wine.
Dinner in the hotel was USD 20 for 2 courses each and a couple of beers including tip. The bar here where we ate is a separate business leasing space in the hotel premises so there's no putting stuff on the bill. This business model is common in FSU territories I believe.
There was a big, noisy pre-New Year party in the hotel restaurant this evening.
It also seems that the group tour I biked us on consists of a group of just us 2!

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BigV	12-29-2017 09:53 AM

You're the whole group?!

That will be a great treat.

limey

12-29-2017 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigV (Post 1001138)

You're the whole group?!

That will be a great treat.

Not sure yet but it looks very like it.

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xoxoxoBruce

12-29-2017 10:35 AM

The huddling for warmth is better that way. I imagine being a strictly English speaker would be a lot more difficult.

Griff

12-29-2017 11:30 AM

Do you have a busy itinerary?

classicman

12-29-2017 11:34 AM

Sounds wonderful. Can't wait to hear all about it. Travel safely.

limey

12-29-2017 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Griff (Post 1001143)

Do you have a busy itinerary?

Two nights in Tashkent, flight to Bukhara and one night there, train to Samarkand and two nights there, train to Tashkent and two nights here again.
Guided tours and free time everywhere.
I think yes is the answer.

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Glinda

12-30-2017 12:38 AM

Your trip sounds fabulous! Please keep us updated, oh and . . . pics or it didn't happen. ;)

*jealous*

limey

12-30-2017 08:38 PM

Have just realised I must give an account of yesterday before today overwrites it!
First off a visit to the religious centre of Uzbekistan. The religious leader is appointed by the President. The buildings below are among the oldest in Tashkent, which was flattened by an earthquake in 1966 in which just 9 people died.
This was built as a madrassah or religious school but is now a craft centre. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4f2bc62940.jpg

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limey

12-30-2017 08:42 PM

next up a visit to the main food market in the centre of town. It was rammed with people buying extra yummy food to celebrate new year's eve. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bf30285061.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...75ca4ce206.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...88a0583960.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...842b88ccf4.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...111df906e2.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2d0978499.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d1d5c7ff07.jpg

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fargon

12-30-2017 08:55 PM

It all looks so good.

xoxoxoBruce

12-30-2017 10:03 PM

Looks like there's no food shortage, of course like anywhere else, if you can afford it. ;)

limey

12-30-2017 10:04 PM

Then a trip to Amir Timur square. You'll recognise this fine example of Soviet brutalist architecture because there where I've stayed in previous visits. Amir Timur was a military leader in the 13th century.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...061d63618e.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...99fee58357.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5a1e7231b9.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0b47c7ae26.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f048a95b67.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...053a7975e9.jpg

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sexobon

12-30-2017 10:20 PM

1 Attachment(s)

So how did he die? Did they follow the tourist guides' myth?

Attachment 62829

sexobon

12-31-2017 02:18 AM

I was hoping to get a live view of Uzbekistan from space; but, the ISS passed over way south along Turkmenistan-Iran border a little while ago. Subsequent orbits will be moving further away. Signal reception is spotty from that part of the globe anyway.

limey

12-31-2017 07:22 AM

limey

12-31-2017 07:27 AM

And then we flew to Bukhara on an Uzbekistan Airlines Boeing 767. We were given champagne and a chocolate before take-off to celebrate New Year!
Here's a view from the plane. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6cf0cb83b4.jpg

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limey

12-31-2017 07:42 AM

And our beautiful room.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fcb0ac6a7c.jpg

Griff

12-31-2017 09:37 AM

Brilliant!

fargon

12-31-2017 10:02 AM

What does the loo look like?

Gravdigr

12-31-2017 10:10 AM

1 Attachment(s)

Attachment 62830

That's a pretty cool bong. Does it burble in Russian?:bong::p:

limey

12-31-2017 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fargon (Post 1001224)

What does the loo look like?

This.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5e10b65ded.jpg

Only that which you have previously eaten can go in the loo. All paper and anything else goes in the trash bin to the right of the picture.

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xoxoxoBruce

12-31-2017 10:55 AM

So best eat toilet paper for dessert. :o I'm sorry.

Gravdigr

12-31-2017 11:01 AM

1 Attachment(s)

The hole is in the front.

THE HOLE IS IN THE FRONT!!!!!Attachment 62831

fargon

12-31-2017 11:04 AM

At least it's not a hole in the floor.

Gravdigr

12-31-2017 11:04 AM

Wouldn't that leave a--

I mean--

What about assblast? Or a butt-sneeze? Wouldn't that spackle the back of the bowl with--

Apparently, I can't even.

Undertoad

12-31-2017 11:48 AM

We can laugh at them, but the Japanese and their superior thrones are laughing at us.

limey

12-31-2017 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gravdigr (Post 1001252)

Wouldn't that leave a--

I mean--

What about assblast? Or a butt-sneeze? Wouldn't that spackle the back of the bowl with--

Apparently, I can't even.

Is your assblast so accurate as to enter the water without touching the sides and so neatly as to not create a watery splashback of its own?

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BigV	01-01-2018 12:54 AM

Horrified and bewitched.

O cellar, you devil, you...

Gravdigr

01-01-2018 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limey (Post 1001267)

Is your assblast so accurate as to enter the water without touching the sides and so neatly as to not create a watery splashback of its own?

It don't stink, either.:p:

Gravdigr

01-01-2018 05:56 PM

And yes, I've experienced Poseidon's Kiss.

Glinda

01-01-2018 09:02 PM

So, I'm going through all the new posts in this thread . . .

LOVING Limey's photos and travelogue (thank you so much. Beautiful!); trying to imagine myself in the middle of that crazy market, smelling all the wonderful smells and trying new and exotic foods, wondering "Is Hotel Uzbekistan anything like Hotel California?" and being instantly captivated by the ceramic cockbong (you know my history with cocks) . . .

And then I get to the bathroom discussion. Busted out in giant guffaws. Scared the bejeebers out of one of the cats.

:lol2:

Thanks guys. This is why I love this place.

Rock on. :thumb:

P.S. Limey, what is the raised, red cloth-covered item on the floor of your hotel room?

limey

01-01-2018 10:19 PM

This?
Many people in Asia/Central Asia are more comfortable sitting on the floor so this is a low table and cushions for such guests. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1edd0e96d9.jpg

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Glinda

01-01-2018 10:46 PM

Ahhh.

I learned another interesting thing today. Thank you! :)

You people are just amazing.

limey

01-02-2018 01:15 AM

Comedy interlude. We arrived in Samarkand by train yesterday evening.
(It is forbidden to take pictures of locations/items of strategic importance, but this is what the train looked like)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4f358021f6.jpg
It was January 1, and apparently there are no restaurants open, EVERYONE is on holiday. The Hotel restaurant isn’t open either. Mr Limey and I had noticed a grocery store nearby, so we suggested that maybe our best course of action is to buy something we can eat in our hotel room.
This is what we did (last loaf of bread, 4oz cooked sausage, 4oz cheese, 1 bottle 10% alc. by volume beer and a bottle of red wine $4), managing to snag a corkscrew, plates and cutlery from Hotel reception on our way back.
But ... but .... it’s not as though this holiday was unexpected. I find it mildly comic that neither the tour agency nor the Hotel had made advance provision for this.
Buying provisions
It certainly helps that I speak a local language. It seems that alcohol is not displayed for sale in corner stores so if you don’t ask you’ll have to go without. In Tashkent we had found a grocery store cum bar, and bought wine there. They uncorked the bottle 3/4 of the way so that we could just pull the cork out.
In Bukhara I asked in the grocery store where we could get wine and they fished some out from under the counter. They also had a corkscrew and were able to “do the honours”. But here in Samarkand the shop had no corkscrew, but fortunately the hotel did.

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xoxoxoBruce

01-02-2018 05:57 AM

Pack a corkscrew in your luggage. ;)

limey

01-02-2018 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce (Post 1001398)

Pack a corkscrew in your luggage. ;)

A good knife is also desirable: both would have to go in checked baggage.
I used to travel with a medium sized Swiss Army knife but it got nicked from my checked baggage. On the same journey someone opened the jar of Scotch bonnet [emoji892] I was taking as a present for a friend and ate one or two. They were a little careless in replacing the lid so I got pickle-juice in my smalls ...

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limey

01-02-2018 10:27 AM

Bukhara was amazing. Here are a few pics loosely grouped in themes. If you want to see 'em all drop me a pm and I'll send you a link to a Dropbox file next week.
Details of our accommodation. I reckon the painting/ carving was all done freehand.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...806f8abbb2.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...87c3f42ba0.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2dd1e4ecdc.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eaf9e2520f.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...40ade79279.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8268d8f017.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b17e772330.jpg

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limey

01-02-2018 10:31 AM

limey

01-02-2018 10:35 AM

limey

01-02-2018 10:47 AM

limey

01-02-2018 11:12 AM

Towers https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...aa677bbe3c.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fc7ebced53.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...093dafc11d.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a8c1c26a60.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...49c84a06f9.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...381c0b21fe.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4f4f486b42.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...36021c1eb9.jpg

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glatt

01-02-2018 11:38 AM

I love all the details

xoxoxoBruce

01-02-2018 01:06 PM

Looking at all those structures it must be the work of thousands of people who had skills. Even if there were crews of say a dozen bricklayers, with one master bricklayer directing the crew, everyone on that crew was learning by doing. Then each trade developed the skills to pass down until generation by generation you build a nation of craftsman who know their shit. Unless of course war, famine, or rulers, force bricklayers to become farmers or soldiers.

Griff

01-02-2018 01:43 PM

Just wow.

BigV	01-02-2018 08:50 PM

Thanks limey~!

I see lots of *non* representational art. And maybe that's stamped concrete? And I like the flagpole/gallows pole... ???? unusual.

xoxoxoBruce

01-02-2018 08:53 PM

I think that pole looks like a giant replica of the pennant poles they use on the steppes.

limey

01-03-2018 06:01 AM

BigV - it was thought for a long time that it was forbidden by Islam to represent animals and people but by the 17th century this view was deemed to be mistaken.
You are right about the concrete - they are modern paving stones. I love the fact that even these humble artefacts are decorated.
xoB - I am sure they are close relatives. The poles advertise the location of significant shrines and have been adopted here from shamanistic practices. There is often a religious symbol at the top, in Islam this is often a hand, and the horse tail is to remind the faithfully that the way to paradise is as narrow and difficult to traverse as a tightrope walk along a horse tail hair.
I saw a couple more of these poles, one of which was indoors but I forgot to photograph that one.

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Gravdigr

01-03-2018 01:56 PM

Thanks for sharing the pics, Limes.

BigV	01-03-2018 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limey (Post 1001466)

BigV - it was thought for a long time that it was forbidden by Islam to represent animals and people but by the 17th century this view was deemed to be mistaken.
You are right about the concrete - they are modern paving stones. I love the fact that even these humble artefacts are decorated.
xoB - I am sure they are close relatives. The poles advertise the location of significant shrines and have been adopted here from shamanistic practices. There is often a religious symbol at the top, in Islam this is often a hand, and the horse tail is to remind the faithfully that the way to paradise is as narrow and difficult to traverse as a tightrope walk along a horse tail hair.
I saw a couple more of these poles, one of which was indoors but I forgot to photograph that one.

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Wow, I got to get a more current history book!

limey

01-04-2018 04:16 AM

pics of Samarkand to come if'n you can stand 'em .. .

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Carruthers

01-04-2018 04:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limey (Post 1001537)

pics of Samarkand to come if'n you can stand 'em .. .

Yes please!

limey

01-04-2018 05:53 AM

Righty ho! Just need to get some sleep first. We are now back in London to catch up with family and friends. Just arrived after two flights (Tashkent - Istanbul - London) and 16 hours on the "road" starting 8pm (London time) yesterday evening. Current status - zonked. Cannot check in to hotel to crash out for another two hours ...

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xoxoxoBruce

01-04-2018 07:04 AM

We'll wait and talk among ourselves while you get recharged, your pictures are worth it. :yesnod:

limey

01-06-2018 07:41 AM