Stupid question about electricity
 

I live in an apartment without a washer and dryer, so I use a pressure washer (non-electric) and an electric spin dryer, like this .

Great little machine, works great on my clothes, BUT -- I've burned out the motors on two of them. Maybe I'm just overloading them; maybe the motors are crappy; but I was wondering . . . could it be my outlet?

It says "works on any 110V" plug. The plug I'm using is a grounded plug in my bathroom. But could the electrical current be weak somehow, contributing to the burning out of the motors? (I know it sounds dumb, but I don't know anything about electricity). My apartment was built in the 70s, and various plugs seem to me to burn things out quickly.

I'm getting ready to order another spin dryer (gotta have one) and I'm wondering if I should change the location.

Yes & no.... electrical appliances are rated by the watts they use. Watts are the Voltage multiplied by the Amperage; ie, 110volts X 10amps = 1100 watts.

If for some reason, like a heavily used circuit, aluminum wiring connection resistance, or a myriad of other reasons, that circuit voltage is low, the amperage has to increase to produce the necessary watts. The higher the amperage the more motor killing heat. Is the plug, and/or cord, warm while in use?

Moving to another circuit may or may not help, if low voltage is indeed the problem, as you might have a problem throughout the place or just on certain circuits.

Isn't it a waste of money to buy a large appliance when you will be moving shortly? Or did you decide against the move?

Yes, and it could be other problems.

First some obvious symptoms. Do incandescent bulbs dim or brighten when major appliances turn on or off?

Second, some parameters that may result in motor failure are low voltage, high voltage, and power factor problems. Probably a simplest tool to learn what you do and do not have is Kill-a-Watt. All three factors viewed digitally by only pushing buttons. Now are numbers to get a useful reply.

Other numbers for a useful reply are manufacturer and model numbers.

One significant reason for motor failure is bad power factor. In simple terms, if voltage and current don't arrive at the same time, then an electric motor can overheat. Power factor of 1 means best power AND means more of the electricity you pay for actually does productive work.

Voltage should remain between 117 and 125 volts AC (which some call 110 volts). Voltage would be outside this range if incandescent bulbs are changing intensity.

Of course, popular myths claim that computers are more easily damaged. Computers must work when voltages are anywhere between 90 and 130 volts. Same bad power factor is not harmful to computers. Do you have bad power? If yes according to above numbers, then your major appliances may be a first victim; computer one of the last victims.

thanks, guys. Let me think about this stuff for a bit.

and, Glatt--you have a point, 'tho this isn't exactly a "major appliance"--it's a $134 portable appliance.

Do you use it to dry your lettuce, too?

They have those little spin dryers at my gym, to dry your bathing suit. They're awesome.... I didn't know they make portable ones (only 22lbs glatt).

I dry all my clothes in the microwave. It's very fast.

You joke, but I had a roommate once who would "sterilize" his dirty clothes by putting them in the microwave, thus making them "ready to wear again" without washing. Yes, he was an idiot. It got even better when, while trying to convince his girlfriend that this was a legitimate technique, he tried it on one of her shirts that happened to have some non-cotton materials in it... and it caught on fire.

When my buddy's kid wants a particular shirt that is in the laundry, he does it in the dishwasher. Washed and dried in a jiffy.

Try getting a UPS (Universal Power Supply). They regulate the power so that its constant - no spikes, no lows either. You can get one for around $30. I use one for my computer stuff and one for the TV and stereo.

The ones at the pool cost $600ish. I just priced them up for ours :(

I saw one fail spectacularly a few weeks ago... loud metal on metal grinding sounds, sparks and embers shooting from the bottom, it was awesome. Scared the shit out of the little girl using it though.

Never seen one before.
But I almost had the piss scared out of me over the weekend. When I was napping with little one while hubby was running errands I woke up to loud bangs coming from the kitchen. First thought was a break in, second thought hubby returned early, third thought something was exploding in the kitchen. After a few more bangs, I got up, armed with cell phone, convinced it was either stupid thief trying to steal our crock pots or exploding soda cans (hubby's car was not in driveway). I sneaked past the kitchen - peaked in and saw nothing. Circled around, heard the banging again, and was confronted by a crazed wood pecker trying to break the window. Guess he heard I make a good baked chicken and stuffing.

whytf would you put dry laundry in one??

The fitness center at college had those spin dryer things for wet stuff. They were awesome. Don't overspin stuff in them though, it can accelerate wear and tear on your suit.

Bonus! :D

I suppose you could spin it with a dryer sheet to freshen or remove wrinkles

Get Head-On. Apply it to a machine's forehead. Same technology also recommends a UPS.

Electricity from that UPS is some of the most destructive to electric motors. That UPS is recommended using same reasoning that proved Saddam had WMDs. That UPS can even apply more spikes to computers, TV, stereos, etc. That UPS does not claim to do anything posted. However those without any electrical knowledge (ie your Best Buy salesman) will promote that UPS as a miracle solution.

There is no alternative to the Kill-a-Watt recommendation. Solution to motor failures is impossible without numbers. UPS is not even protection for the TV, stereo, et al.

if I determine that my outlet (or apt.) has "bad power" -- is there a solution? Other than moving out?

Yes or no. Both answers are correct numerous times due to no numbers or facts.

Don't worry about things hypothetical. Get facts. Answers come much later.

Meanwhile, important facts still are not provided. For example, where is the reply about incandescent bulbs? They were not rhetorical questions. Those questions demand immediate answers should useful replies be desired.

A good UPS with power conditioning can improve power quality, protect against spikes and dips and provide power for a short time in the case of grid interruption. If they didn't do these things why would data centers and telecommunications centers spend so much money on them?

You can even get whole-house UPSs.

They are both called UPSes - therefore they do same? Word association being used to invent a fact. An industrial UPS located at the service entrance is confused with something completely different - a $100 box that does nothing but a few minutes of backup power. It does nothing more - does not do all those things aimeecc posted. A serious UPS performs a long list of functions for thousands of dollars. Therefore the UPS for tens of dollars also does same? Nonsense.

$100 manufacturers quietly say don't put motorized appliances on their products. They say to not do what aimeecc recommended.

HungLikeJesus, show me where it claims to protect from spikes or improves power quality. Do you believe the manufacturer makes that claim? Show me. Intentionally said bluntly because no such claim exists.

What does a UPS do? Connects an appliance directly to AC mains - no filter, no spike protector, no harmonic attenuation, no voltage adjustment. When power goes off, that UPS provides no power while taking time to switch to batteries. Then it outputs motor harmful electricity.

Those building wide systems installed in communication facilities don't do any of this; perform differently. Even their batteries have a 20 year life expectancy.

Same logic that proved Saddam had WMDs is also being used here to wildly speculate what a UPS does. When I say ‘learn lessons from history’, I am citing the same failed thinking (wild speculation) that makes these above UPS claims. UPS manufacturer does not claim what was posted for the same reasons that no facts said Saddam had WMDs.

Well, HungLikeJesus and aimeecc both have posted what the majority believe. Majority does not make a technical fact. Reality: those popular beliefs about UPSes are completely wrong; promoted by people with George Jr ethics (except that UPS promoters don't claim to talk to god).

HungLikeJesus - did I make it obvious how adament I am about those UPS lies? You and aimeecc should go after those who lied to you about UPSes. Those liars should have zero credibility.
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Sorry tw. I didn't realize that I had said all of those things that I didn't say.

What I thought I had said was: Thank you for pointing out my error.

We were not discussing a UeePeeSsss that is found in telephone COs. We were discussing UsePezzSes that are found inside homes. UsePezzSes don't do power conditioning and don't claim to - not matter how highly regarded the manufacturer. To get power conditioning, one needs a UeePeeSsss that costs on the order of $500+ or $thousands.

If it has a APC name, then it probably has zero power conditioning. It is only a battery backup. During battery backup, that power could be harmful to electric motors.

UeePeeSsss are found in industrial environments and adjacent to power breaker box to also provide power conditioning. UsePezzSes are found in the home; typically output harmful electricity because computers have resilient electronics. Computers are so resilient as to not be harmed by power from a UsePezzSes. IOW a UsePezzSes recommended by aimeecc and HungLikeJesus does not provide a power conditioning solution; can acutally create worse conditioned power.

Good UPS with power conditioning was not recommended by aimeecc or HungLikeJesus. Neither recommended a $500 or $5000 UPS.

:lol2: