I haven't done anything with stainless yet, so I'm very fuzzy on the details. If I recall correctly it's the chromium in stainless that makes it corrosion resistant. I think there are even some types of stainless that include titanium in the alloy, which makes me think they'd be even more corrosion resistant.

You can use Lag screws

the lumber yard has them in stock. Bruce will go get them tonight. I will return the ones I (he) bought that are no good... and if they won't take them, I'll eat it. My bad.

They're calling it the 'Christmas Deck' did I mention that?

I figgerd I'd have it done no later than Aug 1 when I started it. whook.

I just have no time.

remember this thread?

i've been taking pics, but never take the time to update you.....

gotta go back and see where I left off.

stairs
 

This is the head scratchinest part of a deck.

I guess I didn't take any pictures of how I measured the cuts. shame. that might have been useful to someone, and it would actually take me 1000 words to describe how I did it.

cliff notes version:

You take a 2x12 and lean it up outside of the edge of the deck, then use a level to make a horizontal line from the outside corner of the bottom of that board before you move it. cut that line. this gives you the ability to set it down on that cut, and strike a line where it meets the deck. cut that. You have to figure out how steep you want them first, and allow for 6-7" risers and 9-11" tread depths. ( this is running right down your face, right?) also, leave a notch so you can mount them....

blah blah blah..

anyhow... here are the stringers all next to each other, and temporarily screwed to a couple plates to secure them while I cut a channel that I will use to mount a brace:
Attachment 34875

So I use a circular saw and cut a bunch of cuts with the blade set to the right depth:
Attachment 34876

then I break off all the bits left, and chisel it smooth:
Attachment 34877
Attachment 34878

On the outsides, I sister a stringer ( The board with the zig zag cuts ) to a 2x12 like I described above. This gives it strength to support the stairs, and conceals the edges of the boards from the side view. Some decks just have exposed stringers, but I want this one to look more polished.

Attachment 34880

So, you have to space stringers like joists....16" apart. The stringers are treated wood, the outside, visible boards are cedar. The cedar is 2x12, the treated 2x10. That made measuring a little trickier.

Oh, I also use another board at the top to mount to the deck. It's a 2x12 cedar board, which i set up to mount it to the face of the deck, drilled, and bolted 14" apart, up down pattern.... then removed it and used that to assemble the stairs on the ground.

here's the mounting board:
Attachment 34882

I attached that to the stringers, and used that channel i cut to set a 2x4 in. the 2x4 sits inside the 2x12, but I will need to rip another one in half and screw it up along the edge of the underside of the 2x12 in order to conceal that brace from the side view.

Attachment 34879

mounting the assembled stairs was a job. heave ho.

I cut 3 of them shaped at the top to fit into the underside of the deck just so. If you look at the 1st pic in the previous post, you can see a weird shape at the left. that is the revers of what the underside looks like. I'll use that to attach it to the deck. I also did some internal mounts that i didn't photo.... but trust me.... It's not going to fall off.

Attachment 34881

Very cool!

you can see that 3 of the feet got snapped off. ( Bruce did one, I did one, and the painter did one)...yeah, he had his house painted while this is going on....

ass
Attachment 34886



I reattached them with a single screw and filled in between with river jack to support the bottom step.
Attachment 34884

then I just cut the treads to fit, and nail em in.
Attachment 34885

pro tip
 

So... ever split a board where you're nailing near the edge?

Here's a good quick way of avoiding that:

Oh, and I used a little chip to set the distance from the edges so the nails are all in a nice looking row....
Attachment 34887

take the nail and flip it over.....give it a couple whacks like that where you are going to drive it in. This punches a weak spot down through the board or something magic happens or I don't know really what...
Attachment 34888

flip the nail over, and put it through. unless you're on a knot, or real dry wood, or huge nails... you will not split it.

I use a pilot hole if I am worried about that though...

Attachment 34889

oh, this also counter sinks the nail and it goes in flush without bruising the board.

this saw I got has been invaluable. It's $25 and worth every penny. It's a Japanese design I think from way back....
Attachment 34890

It's got coarse teeth, but is super thin. cuts clean. great for finishing cuts where the circular saw's circular nature leaves you those fang shaped bits attached. also used it to shorten one of the posts by 1/4" and cut a groove into a stringer that got wonky.


Attachment 34891

ok... thats all for now. just have to deck it and do the railings... then odds and ends like the door sill and stuff. Should be done by Thanksgiving!

3foot got snapped off?!!

Looken good dude

Thanks, but do you like the deck?

What did you do about the bolts (from previous discussion).