I meant to share this article about Pete:

http://www.njpen.com/loudo-musical-i...-collingswood/

So laudo becomes Loudo, damn whippersnappers got no respect for Latin. :lol:

Sounds to me like Brown has his head on straight, I hope he does well.
Thanks for that link, an interesting read. :thumb:

He's a good dude, and smart. Reminds me of how Flint is. Maybe on the spectrum a bit, but not far. You just have to be smart yourself to keep up with the big steps his mind takes.

Especially if you do any pottery with him. We talked about playing chess and being steps ahead of your opponent. The analogy kept coming up with planning a guitar build. 'Think 3 steps ahead!' ~ I will once I know all the steps! ~

He might need some help with sales and marketing.

That.

What? Somebody reads my posts? I thought you all had me on Ignore.

I wish I could finish big projects like Jim. I've done a few half-assed things recently like learning how to build/install car stereos, but generally I just don't have what it takes to make it to the "execution" phase.

To be honest, I wake up feeling like a lump of clay, and it takes a Ritalin and a Red Bull just to get me to work by 9:30-ish.

Set up to drill the tuner peg holes. I've been dreading this task for some reason. I guess because if I fuck this up, all that work....

Stay tuned to find out if I fucked it up!

The piece of wood under the head stock is to prevent tear out when the bit goes through. The piece on top is just to keep the clamp from denting it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1bd63858c9.jpg

The holes are 7/8" apart on center. I guess this isn't really super crucial after all... What happens beyond the nut won't affect how it sounds. How it tunes and stays tuned, though, matter a bit.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...19485a4aae.jpg

I poked the crosshairs with the awl, drilled 1/4" in with a 1/8" bit to seat the brad of the Brad point bit.
I set my smallest engineers square on the wood next to the hole as a reference to keep the bit perpendicular.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...82dcd3f366.jpg

Note to self: use a contrast colored wood as a back plate so you can tell when you're through the head stock.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7fff5ee5ff.jpg

I did have some tear out on the front, unfortunately.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bf750a4154.jpg

You know how to fix that right?

Super glue and saw dust. It's the wrong color, but it is being painted.... Soon!... And there's a chrome ring that will cover most of it anyway.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a37f02b2e7.jpg

Fine sanding the body...

I went around looking fur things like this in the body :

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1ccab17a9f.jpg

I went to the soldering Iron and wet cloth method of streaming out the dents. I haven't gotten my other knife yet and the iron stays hot better.

And then sanding. Lots of hand sanding. Really fun though. 100, 150, 320, and 400 grit.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d92a0ca01a.jpg

When I felt like it was good to go, I attached the neck and took it to Amanda to look over.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...582273baab.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3183b83729.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...30952d7f43.jpg

She found a few spots that need attention, so I'll fix them and then sand with 1200 grit... I wet the wood to raise the grain after the first 400 pass. I'll probably do that again after the 1200, then do another 400 and 1200 to take off the fur.

Here's a close up of the heel joining the body

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c8206936da.jpg

I went with the curved back plate so I could bevel the part where you grip the neck for higher notes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b9a4a221c5.jpg

My strat has a square edge there, so my hand comes up against that corner, making reaching the top frets difficult.

I like how the lines intersect
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...704f4fc4c5.jpg

Wouldn't the hole spacing for the pegs govern the distance between the strings?

not really, the strings go from the tuning peg to a slot in the nut at the top of the neck. from there the strings go straight down the neck.

Nut? Gitouttahere. :headshake

Point being, the sound wave is created by the length of the string. The nut is the longest or lowest point the string ends. What goes on beyond it is purely esthetic.

What I'm seeing is the string coming off the peg into a slot in the top most fret, then down to the business end where the electronics are. Not seeing any nuts except my own. :confused:

I need to decide on a finish. Thinking about this acrylic lacquer

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0ea43bb947.jpg

It's thick. This is one coat. You mix equal parts of acrylic resin and hardener, mix in a pigment, and pour it on. I have a bunch of mica pigment samples. This blue is groovy, and I have a good turquoise. Not sure if I'll be able to keep drips under control while it cures though.

The other options are spray paint with lacquer over it, or staining it and oiling it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...25a2908bda.jpg

The nut is the little bar the strings go over at the very end of the fret board. Mine isn't on yet.

What? These are nuts.
Attachment 66253

Whoever decided this is a nut must be the third kind of nut above.

Attachment 66254

:facepalm:

Thanks man.

Best fix is to prevent it. Finish the hole from the other side.

I should have known you were parts of this travesty. :eyebrow:

What do you mean exactly? That's the front that chipped, not the back. It's the one hole that I went all the way through the backing plate. I think the chuck nicked it.

Well that explains that, I thought it chipped on the back side. I might have even assumed.

As you were.

Update of sorts.... The original stratocaster that I bought in 1988, the one I took to get repaired... That started this whole interest for me....

Is fucked.

The neck is not fixable. Not by any means Pete is willing to attempt, anyway. I may someday revisit it. I'm keeping the neck, but we've decided to make a new neck for it.

I've got that beautiful piece of flamed Maple I showed you in this thread. Last night I went over to Pete's and he designed it with a 3D design program. We've tweaked a couple things. Like the nut width and one of the curves on the head stock.

The cool thing is... We're going to cut this neck on his C&C machine, truss rod slot and all. So I can give him designs for the inlay on the head stock, and the C&C will cut it out precisely. All I'll have to do is fill it with dust and glue and sand it flat.

I'm going to use Bubinga for the fret board, and he can slot and radius that to spec as well.

Should be interesting

Bubinga - sounds dirty but isn't

~ just want to take a moment to mention what an excellent thread this is ~ It is so interesting watching you go, and all the details.

I've been playing for 34 years, and I do my own setups, and have even replaced bridges and modified my electronics and such. But there's so much to it all, I'm learning a ton here.

Thanks for that. I have to constantly remind myself to stop and take pics. Then at night, I go through my gallery and write the post based on the pics I took or video. I'm glad you're enjoying this thread.

Sunday, I'm going to lay out the hardware and drill the holes for the bridge and claw. Then I'm going to paint it. I'll do the tiny holes for the pick guard and tuner pegs after paint dries. The time between coats and curing, I'll use to work on the 88 strat neck... And vacation....

Might have a finished guitar by end of Feb, early March. Then I'll do a second guitar!

Yeah, thanks for taking the time to lay all this out for us. I appreciate it anyway.

I keep looking forward to the next installment.

Making lemonade, good plan.

I also love this thread man, too cool for words. The precision required to do this right is mind-blowing.

Here's that neck blank

That's beautiful maple.

I'm really enjoying this thread too. Making an electric guitar is much more involved than I realized and this one is really coming together.

I'll second or third or ____ because I'd stand in line to praise the amount of work you've put into making this great thread.
Technical enough to learn shit but fun enough to eagerly await what happens next.:notworthy

The flamed Maple is beautiful but I don't think the people will see it when you're up on that stage of the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame.

Oh, and now I am getting Stew Mac ads in my social media feeds. I must have followed a link in this thread, or looked something up that you referenced. :)

Doh! Sorry, but Dan Erlewine is the man. He's stew mac's guru. He has all the cool tools. I was close to ordering a pin reamer for the next job, but it was $164 for a hand tool that I'd use once per guitar. I used a step bit in my countersink driver and a rat tail file that I already had instead. Good boy, Jim.
Here's why :

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2646f55ba0.jpg

The tuner pegs are slightly tapered. The top facing part of the shaft is 3/8"
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...951157c3a7.jpg

But they widen to 25/64" at the bottom.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a85903efbd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...38a3d61105.jpg

My step bits have a 3/8

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1e4caf8869.jpg

But then go 13/32 then 7/16 or 14/32.... 25/64 is 12.5/32nds. So I needed to go about half way there with the former. I didn't do any math to figure that out, I just reamed the first hole a bit, tried the tuner, repeat until it sank to the right depth.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...830cd08f3c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...abc37408b1.jpg

Then I made the pencil mark on the bit and brought the rest slowly down.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3da039e117.jpg
And cleaned up the edge with this file.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3027e69d53.jpg

The tuner with no reaming of the hole :

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ecbe6669c0.jpg

After :

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...187559772e.jpg

Once the holes (and I only did the first and last hole at first) were opened up enough to seat the tuners, I can see that my first peg is too short.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...73b2dcb76c.jpg

Which means the head stock is too thick up there. It's 0.6025" there and 0.5905" at the end. I'll need to sand that to 0.500 I guess. But I had what I needed to do the job I was trying to do.

What I'm doing is lining up the location of the bridge.

I attached the first and sixth peg to the head

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c5404f7fe6.jpg

Made sure to align the hole in the peg perpendicularly to the neck

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...58ae7e8ee4.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a4e5a3552c.jpg

And got out this spool of conductive thread I had from when I was making my gloves touch screen capable...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fc59291d58.jpg

Only because it was the only thread I could find that was thick and strong enough to do what I wanted it to do. Some guys will use guitar strings for this next part.

I suppose you could use a straight edge and math, but it seemed to me that this way is easier and more accurate. Back up. First I want to show Bruce my nut:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...26d0736aa8.jpg
You can see that it is pre grooved.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...40cd6e98ec.jpg
So that gives me the lateral location of the strings as they enter the fret board. I'll file into them to set the height of each string when I get into set up at the end of this.

But for now, I need it mounted where it will be sitting when it's done.

Here's its home :

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...236eadc7f2.jpg

The nut is radiused to 10". My board is 12". So I'll compensate with a very expensive nut slotting file later.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...de285b8701.jpg
I started getting all clever and trying to put pieces of wood up the edges and clamping it from the side to make sure it was flush on both sides and didn't move around.... You can see the clamp on the desk... But then I realized... Just use tape, dip shit.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...07b515ef44.jpg

Now the bridge :


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0b5019b2d2.jpg

The two u shaped parts at the top edge are where the bridge will pivot against the posts. The location of those posts is crucial. Vital even.

The bridge has holes through it where the strings go around to the back of the guitar.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1b120efd0f.jpg
They come up over the saddles.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...697b302330.jpg
The saddles are the grey metal blocks that have that slot and the 2 adjustment screws {one in each half. ) There are 6. One for each string

I ran the thread through the 6th peg and locked it down with the locking mechanism. That's a post inside the peg that's tightened with the big flat wheel at the bottom of the tuning machine.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a3ce7d5af7.jpg

There is a post inside the tuner post that rises when you tighten the nurled wheel, which pins the string going through it against the inside top of the post. That keeps them from slipping and losing tune.

So anyway.... Through the 6th peg, into the 6th hole in the bridge, under and back out the first hole and up to the first peg.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2f111ddb4b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3395a4ad7e.jpg

Now I've simulated where the strings will be. I can line it up laterally by eye, compensating for the thicker bottom (closer to the top as you hold the guitar) strings.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0e735a64c.jpg


I want the strings running as parallel as possible and centered. The dark line running up the guitar is center as it happens. That's from gluing 2 pieces for the body, and being careful to center every thing I do to the top and the neck.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...39d1347858.jpg
Not just eyeball here, I checked to confirm
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...359e188ef8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9a4640cd83.jpg

The 12th fret is the middle of the string length, so if my distance from center line is the same there and at the first fret and the 22nd, it's straight.

And it is straight. If my neck pocket wasn't square, or if my neck wasn't attached properly, I'd have work to do fixing that. But I was extra careful, so this worked out well.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...08202db08d.jpg

Now, I mark the hole location by tracing the bridge and finding the center of the post.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...37a4ec3520.jpg
The posts are 2 1/4" apart at centerhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...de64da751d.jpg

I stopped there because it was getting late and I wanted time for things I forgot to bubble up to the surface of my brain.

Which of course I had done. I never checked the length when I had it together. It's probably right.... I haven't changed anything since I corrected that 25.5" issue I had, but I want to check it again before drilling. And I want to make a jig that I can set on top and make 100% sure my bit can't walk when I start the holes.

I'd like that to be adjustable, so I can use it for future guitars, so I've got my subconscious working on that while I review this.

But here's the best thing! It made its first sound!

Oscar Meyer has a way with B O L O G N A.

Now it's out to the garage and set up the planer and the jointer to work on the flamed Maple board for the new neck. Weeee!

You'll never walk alone...

Attachment 66292

Thanks, Jim.

Congratulations, it's a guitar!:cheerldr:

Have ya given any thought to what you're gonna call it?

Lucille? What about serial number? LJ001, JH001?

Thought about serial numbers... Hadn't thought of naming it....

The Lumbercaster?

Hmmmmm

The length is fine
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c067a67e0.jpg
The orange dot is just about where the string will come off the saddle

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...be5f203e20.jpg
So, pretty close. The saddle will adjust forward enough to make it just right.

I made the jig, but just a one off, as my subconscious hasn't gotten back to me yet.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...41b5e0675a.jpg
Take the distance...
And then
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5e63ba7ef6.jpg
This is that Aztek material I used for the router sled.

Here's another of those stick on LED lights.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bad85ccc0f.jpg
I love them
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1fbc8bf5e5.jpg
One on each side of the drill press.
I need to see
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0bb94fce3b.jpg

Missed the mark on the first attempt. Looked good while I was drilling it, but when I double checked it, it was off a Lil bit.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...99377833b3.jpg

Second try got it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2b87780786.jpg

I clamped the jig to the body and said fuck it.

I lie. I didn't do that at all. I checked depth.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1e8ff5f5af.jpg

Managed to fuck that up though, so I might as well have said fuck it. We'll get to that in a bit. The holes actually came out perfect with regards to placement. They were a bit skinny, though. I had the idea that I should drill an 11/16 hole, as the 3/8" collar could be pounded home snugly.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dee05aef2c.jpg
In reality, when I saw that in person, I chickened out. Afraid I'd split the wood. So I decided to go a 16th wider.
I used the step bit by hand like the tuner pegs to get that started, but then I had to switch to a real 3/8" bit to get to the bottom. That's where I had a little faux pas. The bit grabbed and shot through the bottom on the lower hole.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fcd9c5fae5.jpg

Don't know that that will matter in the end. The hole will be full of pivot post and brass collar.

They went in easily enough.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ddb9f9e6ea.jpg

I hammered through a piece of scrap from the neck. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c9258c4d00.jpg

So I can lay the bridge in, and install the claw.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d9c2ce892d.jpg
The Claw!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...83b8441ab7.jpg
Mark the holes

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...70f4a25eef.jpg
Then use a really long bit when I drill them to minimize the angle.

The Claw hooks to the tremolo with springs. The strings will provide counter force to make the back of the trem 'float'.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...da7d96b5cc.jpg

I could string this and play it right now. I just need to glue the nut down.

Brb

I glued the nut down.

And put the tuners on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7a0d8d4bfd.jpg
But I didn't string it. I'm gonna wait.

I had to file the face of the head stock down some to make that 6th post sit right, and will most likely need to go back and flatten out the entire headstock with the sander.

I can't really do anything else until I paint it.

Launch Pad #1.

...the hell?

Can't help you with that one.

Paint is going to take a week if I get real lucky with weather. Probably longer because vacation. I'll try to get the sanding sealer on tonight and let that cure until weds. Then paint throughout the day on weds... Then whenever I can sneak out and throw a coat of lacquer on until Saturday night... Put it inside to cure while we're away and sand the lacquer when we get home. I'll probably do some kind of sparkly mica in the top few coats of lacquer to add depth.

After paint is dry, I'll drill the little holes for the pick guard, tuner pegs and string trees. Strap buttons....

And then I've got to line the cavities with copper and or conductive paint, install the electronics, touch up the frets, string it and set it up.

Should be done by the end of the month.

Faraday cages.

I've got this shit:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3394fcfabe.jpg
And this shit:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3b8348ee83.jpg

I did the front first. Taped it all up so I didn't drip...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...83664380cb.jpg

Oh.... I changed the neck:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3e01156905.jpg

It's that 2X4 that I used to practice routing back a hundred years ago when I started this thread. Ever read, 'The Giving Tree? '

This 2X4 has starred in roles such as:

Router Practice
First trip through the planer
First trip across the jointer

And now....

The role of a lifetime....

Stick I use to hold the body while I paint it

:cheers:

I used the same template I used to make the actual neck, but skipped the whole router table business. I just used that alligator rasp to fit it into the pocket. I'm finding more and more that for 'approximate' jobs, grabbing a hand tool is more expedient than setting up a machine. Save the machines for precision or volume jobs.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b246090d48.jpg
I just used the extant holes and went through the front of the handle jig with the same color matched screws.

So anyway, Faraday Cage...the idea is to surround the guitar's innards with a conductive net or shield. This reduces feed back and that 60 htz him that you get from electronic interference that comes form lights, tv's, amplifiers, etc... So I bought paint and tape because I didn't know which would work better. A combo should also work.
I ran out of the conductive paint before I got it all covered. The underside of the pick guard haa a foil liner. I need conductivity across the front, so I painted up over the top in a section in the center.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...80f98ab3ad.jpg

I'll probably go back in with some copper tape to make sure I have contact. I lined the back cover myself
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...299c40e04e.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...87b6f44d30.jpg

I covered the back cavity with copper...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...94148b8ac9.jpg

Made sure I had 1/8" rolling up over the edge to contact the back plate interior.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...082ac65edb.jpg
So when that cover is attached, the back pocket will be shielded. Probably over kill... But fuck off. I'm not cutting any corners.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5c1e97d812.jpg

I've got a little touch up to do there still, but it's bed time. Night y'all. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f14e5dfb71.jpg

Between 40 and 60 this week, but rain. Not great for paint drying.
I think Griff's rocket was response to my suggesting Launch Pad 1 for a name.

Oh, ok. I thought it might be like, countdown to launch... Like the end was near...

If you'd like to clean this thread to use for serious reference, or to show nice people, you're welcome to delete my crap.

Wouldn't dream of it. Your crap is part of the fabric of the cellar. I appreciate that you reply. Just to know that there is someone paying attention gives me motivation to work on it when I am feeling lazy. Seriously, thanks.

By the way, my dad reads this thread. He's real excited that I've taken this hobby up. Anything that gets me more interested in guitars is good from his pov.

He's the best guitarist I know, and as soon as I feel like I know what I'm doing, I'm going to make one for him. And when I give it to him, I'm going to take a video of the two of us jamming on our Lumbercasters and put it up in this here thread. That's a promise.

That'll be really nice.

I stated at the second-to-last picture for way too long trying to figure out why there was a naked man standing in the background...

Oh
My
God

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8f7fcb3a57.jpg

My hand has a cute ass

That is ridiculous!

JIM'S HAND'S GOT ASS!!!!!

How about a little lumber porn this morning?



Look at how the light shifts and the flames roll right at the beginning... Love that.


I remedied the head stock thickness issue
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...341acab89d.jpg
I flattened that hump down, but still had a bit of a tilt to the washer for the 6th peg.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b0abd987ac.jpg
So I relieved some wood from the nut side. Just traced the washer and went around it with my 2nd tiniest chisel (2mm dog leg chisel(the one I used to clean up the nut slot)) and now the washer sets in a bit leaving it 95% perfectly flat.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...65d74560f3.jpg

There is I tiny gap under it, but I think paint will fill that in and it'll disappear.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0e52349406.jpg

I also invented a sanding jig
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b833966d2a.jpg
Just a slit cut half way through a bit of scrap from the coasters I made, and a couple screws. I've got 2 strips back to back. 1000 grit on one face, 2000 on the opposite.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8617602423.jpg