Come at him with a handful of binder clips, he'll do whatever ya want.

The Radiusing jig works.

I set it to 18" at the heel and 12" at the nut, and tested it with a piece of pine that I planed down to 1/4", cut to 19.5" long.
The end is about 17.5

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dbf9d136f0.jpg
The nut end is 12 ish an inch in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a23e9ee26e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c88ea13a24.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...61b364e81d.jpg

It needs a strip of teeth and a gear with a handle so I can wind it along the track smoothly while I rock the board back and forth.

Or a small cable, like picture frame hanging wire, wrapped around a drum on a crank handle.

Hmmm. Yeah... If I could figure a way of incorporating the rocking of the rocker board, and just stand there and crank a handle on a wheel while it does it's thing, I'd have a marketable product.

Ok, nerds. Let's figure this out. Winning design gets a slice of the profits and a say in naming it.

Oh, and... Remember that red guitar I bought for $106? I've had it disassembled and kind of in my way for 3 weeks or so. I've been brushing up on the wiring inside guitars and what all that stuff does....

I had procured a bunch of pots and a few switches and associated bits of hardware in anticipation of wiring the next 2 guitars. One of the switches I bought is a Freeway super switch. It has the traditional in-line 5 positions, but it also has a second row of 5 that is accessed by tilting the switch lever. It could potentially be wired for 10 unique combinations of pickups. They have an archive of wiring diagrams for this switch as it controls various pick up arrangements. SSS and HSS (single coil X 3 and single, single, humbucker) for strat type guitars, and a few for other 2 pickup guitars. Here's the one I used to wire the red guitar :

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...896682ba8d.jpg

The switch is the rectangle with the BH OP BG etc... And 'note terminal A is not used '
See all those tiny little tabs you have to solder wires to? Look closer:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a275154565.jpg

I've been trying to get my nerve up to do it for the 3 weeks the guitar has been apart. I had pre tinned all the lugs on the pots and put the puddles of solder on the backs of the pots to hold the ground wires, on previous occasions, before chickening out and doing more research before tackling that birds nest of wiring... Well today, I nutted up and dove in. It took me about 4 hours to do it... But I did it. And it's really cool. I used 2 different flavors of capacitors(the orange things ^) on the tone knobs. Capacitors bleed off Treble. Turning the knob up takes less, and down takes more. The value of the capacitor represents how wide that range can be.

Common values are. 022 and. 047. People have a lot of opinions about which should be used with which pots and pickups. In general, you use a 47 for humbuckers and 500k pots, and 22s for single /250k. The way this set up works, the tone knobs have a potent effect on the sound. It's like another layer of variation you can get from the different pickup combinations. All in all, it makes the guitar incredibly versatile. The switch was $37, the pots came to $3.47 ea X 3. The wire and solder I already had, but maybe $1.25 in value... So now it's about a $150 investment. I could sell it to a friend for $250 and feel like I was doing them a favor.

That is pretty cool!

So a G string is only a G string if the choice of electronic components allow it, or it's always a G but with different tones?

Always a G with different tones.

This allows for the three pickups to "hear" the string a little differently. It lets any combination of pickups to be in the circuit, and whether they are wired in series with each other, or parallel. So you can whine with it, or scream, or cry. Or just play rhythm!

Oh, and true to my pattern, I installed the switch upside down. So when I have the switch all the way to the right, as I look down at it, the neck pick up is live. Logically, it should be the bridge pickup live at that setting.

Derp. I know this about me, and yet.... I still do it. Next time I change strings, I'll see if I can just flip it around without having to re do the wiring.

Turn the guitar around before ya start soldering next time.

I had the pots and switch mounted to the plexiglass that the rig I put in LC001 came mounted to. That was handy because the pots are held the correct distant and orientation from each other, so wire length is easy to figure. I had it held in one of my helping hands thingers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6368ed2e2d.jpg

It's helpful and handy

Just paint an 11 next to it and say it's new and improved. :blunt:

Ok, I learned a lot.

I jointed and glued a 2 piece body
I routed the cavities and neck pocket using template
I learned the super glue and masking tape trick
I made several jigs starting with the truss rod trench set up
I routed that
I learned to pay attention when I glue the fret board onto the neck and to use a caul. Which I learned to make with the table saw.
I learned how to install frets
And to level them and dress them
I learned a lot about different finishing techniques
I got much better at soldering
I carved the body and the neck
I learned that I don't want so much drop on the head stock, so start with a thinner blank
I learned how to wire it
I learned how to set action and intonation

And a thousand other little things along the way.

I am starting the next phase now. I had previously glued the body boards for one of the next two. It's chilling under my bench waiting for me to glue the top on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b19061a807.jpg

Well first I had to joint that top and glue it.

Didn't take much. Just a few passes with a hand plane on each piece.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3c9d8bc204.jpg

Pretty frigging tight

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c73f273db5.jpg

I clamped it all up dry so I knew what clamps I'd want and have them laid by near to hand. You only have so much time before the glue sets.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9350ca7c70.jpg

The bright blue thing is my super straight straight edge. It's good to go. Tite bond 3 went on, and I quickly replaced the clamps.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e3b0992db1.jpg

Straight edge at an angle says it's flat as your mom's chest
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...79b222f3e0.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3ec08fc5c5.jpg

I just hope it stays that way when the clamps come off
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...74c8989033.jpg

This will get glued on to the top of the body blank. They'll be 2.04"thick together plus whatever the glue adds. That will give me some wood to work with for the contours.

I was going to do mash ups using the fender routing and scale length, but I've decided that's adding complexity that will introduce too many new opportunities for error. I'm going to order the templates for these two Gibson bodies

My dad chose the SG
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...418a782b3e.jpg
Which I love. Jerry played one, and it's wicked cool looking

Pat (brother in law) has always loved the Rd Artist

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...91bf5a3916.jpg

And he wants that silver burst finish, so that'll be new knowledge I'll learn.

The SG is 24.75" scale, the Rd is 25.5" like the Stratocaster. The one departure will be the head stocks. I'm not doing tilt back. They break. I'll do a drop and trees to give the strings tension across the nut.

Doing 2 at once will save time setting up the shop for the steps I take.

This is the other top I have. Birds eye maple

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a96bdc90c3.jpg

Not sure I want to use that on either of these.... Maybe the SG. I can't see a burst over that figuring. I guess I could over the curly maple that's gluing up tonight.... The birds eye pieces are going to need a lot more work jointing then. I can't decide how to configure them, and the way I've got them above leaves huge gaps that will have to be corrected.