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-   -   Buying a New Car (http://cellar.org/showthread.php?t=27922)

Clodfobble 06-29-2015 03:51 PM

Congrats, classic!

BigV 07-04-2015 12:46 AM

Congrats!!!

With that car, you're good to go for the next 25 years.

Gravdigr 07-04-2015 01:45 PM

Awesome Classic. Everyone should own a brand new car at least once in their life.

classicman 07-05-2015 12:35 PM

Thanks all. Fargon asked in another thread, so I posted a pic there.

glatt 07-05-2015 07:37 PM

Just got back from a road trip up to Scranton area. New car kicks ass. Wants to go fast. Is stable at speed.

classicman 07-06-2015 09:32 AM

nice!

Griff 07-06-2015 08:06 PM

You boys gonna race?

classicman 07-07-2015 07:00 AM

Nah, my racing days are over. This car has a CVT.

glatt 07-07-2015 07:26 AM

I don't know what CVT means from a driver's point of view.

My car has some sort of stability control where if you try to do some stupid shit at high speed it corrects your input. I haven't tried doing any stupid shit at high speed, so I don't know how well it works.

And instead of just 2 air bags, it has 6! I know this is nothing special these days, but it's cool anyway.

Oh, and XM radio is good, but cuts out more than I like. Even some overhead highway signs make it cut out. My wife digs it though, so we'll probably subscribe after the two month free trial is over.

xoxoxoBruce 07-07-2015 08:38 AM

In theory six airbags should be more protection, if they work properly, when you need them. The down side is they're $1000 apiece if they get set off accidently or stolen. Of course it's better to have them than not, but all these bells and whistles come at a price.

The stability control means there is a complicated system of sensors and computers talking to each other and making decisions whether to override your inputs or not. It's doing this while living in a more hostile environment than most electronic systems ever see. Sooner or later, hopefully much later, some part of the system will fail, usually in a fail safe mode. But trouble shooting those systems is difficult and expensive, partly because the software is proprietary and secret. Sure it can be decoded by hackers, but it can't be used in unlicensed diagnostic equipment, putting you at the mercy of the manufacturer(dealer).

Not to cast aspersions on your new car, just a general observation on how complicated they have gotten and the costs. There's no choice either, it applies to every car made these days. Somebody always pipes up, I've got seven bazillion miles on my fluffmobile and never had a lick of trouble. Sure, but the people who have aren't saying anything.

I have an admittedly have a jaundiced eye because the circles I travel in, and publications I read, are full of stories about the exceptions like $2800 Audi head gaskets, $1000 computers (at least a dozen in most cars), and a car totaled by the insurance company because the seats were stolen and it would cost too much to replace them.

glatt 07-07-2015 09:06 AM

I tend to agree with you on all points.

My wife had been somewhat unhappy with our old cars for a while and kept talking about buying a brand new one and taking out a loan to pay for it. When this almost new car became available, I saw a way to scratch that new car itch for a fraction of the cost. And I'm digging this car too.

We're gonna sell our Camry as soon as we get around to it. And keep our '95 Prizm. It needs some work though. Probably needs more work than it is worth, but I love that car and think it would be smart to keep it going. And the needing more work than it is worth is simply because it's not worth much of anything at all. It needs a new muffler and a paint job. And I'd like to get better tires for it. Could probably use some struts too. It creaks and groans going over speed humps. And it's got a slight mildew smell inside. I should figure out how to address that.

xoxoxoBruce 07-07-2015 09:19 AM

Putting some money in a car you like, vs spending your children's education, plus interest, on a new one? I agree with your choice. However I question the paint job. Since this will be the "second car", so to speak, having primer spots, matte looking paint, and visible duct tape, makes the intimidation factor in an urban environment most valuable. :haha:

Oh wait, this is for the girl to drive isn't it. nevermind

Lamplighter 07-07-2015 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce (Post 932857)
<snip>
Oh wait, this is for the girl to drive isn't it. nevermind

Easy solution: Pink primer

Gravdigr 07-07-2015 02:55 PM

My scooter has a CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission).

xoxoxoBruce 07-07-2015 04:49 PM

They work pretty well on small hp applications.

glatt 05-12-2016 09:56 AM

I'm getting ready to sell my cousin's 2012 Ford Focus.

Looking for advice in how to go about selling it.

First of all, he has been in one or two accidents with it, and had it repaired through insurance at legitimate body shops that would report that shit to Carfax. I don't know the severity of those accidents, but don't see any visible problems with the car. It looks pretty good, but has a toothpaste or something stain on the passenger seat. I should try to clean that.

The car currently doesn't run. Two issues: He had been trying to start it and wasn't able to because the key would turn in the ignition without the starter even engaging, and instead the alarm would go off. Some Ford bullshit electrical problem. And secondly, I disconnected the battery to spare the neighbors the alarm sound every time he tried this, and also to ensure he would never be able to get the car started because he was a menace on the road.

So it needs a tow to the dealership to get those two things fixed. Battery is easy, but I figure it should wait until it's at the dealer so it won't be honking up the neighborhood.

On the plus side, it should have low miles (Not sure because the battery is disconnected and I can't read the odometer.) And he had purchased the extended service plan, and it has a couple years left on that plan, and the plan will transfer to the new owner.

My wife contacted the dealer and some guy responded that he wanted the VIN and some pictures so he could make us an offer. I appreciate her calling the dealer, but I don't know if he's a repair guy or a salesman.

Is it foolish to talk to a salesman before the car is even running?

Should I get it repaired and then try to sell it, or should I just deal with this salesman and sell it as is?

Is a car automatically considered "rough" even if it looks OK but was in a previous accident?

monster 05-12-2016 10:29 AM

aaaaaaand..... we're at it again. We need a third car. Beest has found one he likes. inventory says it exists.... dealers say #bullshitbullshitbullshithowaboutthisusedoneweredesperatetooffloadinsteaditsamuchbetterdealhonestlybullshitbullshit

monster 05-12-2016 10:30 AM

sigh

xoxoxoBruce 05-12-2016 10:48 AM

Tell them no, you want what you want and you'll have to buy it online. That should bring them around.

glatt 05-12-2016 11:10 AM

Wanna buy a Ford Focus?

monster 05-12-2016 11:51 AM

Not that one!

lumberjim 05-12-2016 12:13 PM

Glatt, get the repairs done under warranty first. Dealers will give you wholesale, but it's quick.

Take it to a different ford dealer and get a buy figure. I can get you the auction value if you get me the info. I'll need the actual miles and options. So once it's fixed give me a call.

monster 05-12-2016 07:27 PM

I reckon if there was a Cellar currency (?the monkey, the Deadhobo, the tw....?) The image of sir Jim of Lumber would be on one of the bills. The biggest one, of course, to fit that fivehead on.

lumberjim 05-12-2016 07:50 PM

I'll settle for nothing less than the $50.

UT should be on the 100. Founder

Bruce on the single.
Most in circulation

Tw on the 2 because duh

I'll leave some for you to do ...

Beest 05-16-2016 07:30 PM

buying another car to satisfy the ever growing number of drivers in the family, I'm zeroing in on a Mazda 3 (isport, manua hatchback,with preferred package, in red)
zoom zoom
http://media.mazda-motors.com/pictur...AVVlwZFQQ=.jpg

So questions, mostly for Jim I guess:
Through AAA you can get a certified true car value, 8% below msrp on mazdas ( different on different vehicles), no negotiating, they are contracted to this price. There is also 0% financing on 60 months, and $1000 from the manufacturer.
Is this just a scheme, could we try and get better than this?
We're not intending to put any money down, we can use that cash for other things, but would that help in some way besides lowering the price and payments.

We don't have a trade-in since we are expanding our garage, it's been a devil of a job getting a car at all since nobody stocks manuals. The hatchback mazdas sell as soon as they come in, so the dealer isn't hurting to shift them, we are probably going to have to order.

Beest 05-16-2016 07:54 PM

also, I made my initial contacts ( I've looked at Subaru and Honda too) through websites, I'm guessing they give internet sales to the noobs/junior sales people from the ones I have encountered.
Are customers who approach through the internet more troublesome/flaky/more work ?

xoxoxoBruce 05-16-2016 10:44 PM

I read salesmen didn't like them because they were more informed and sometimes misinformed but convinced they're right be cause they read/misread it on the internet.
Red cars have higher resale value, more accidents, gather more tickets, and induce more road rage in others. There a numerous studies to back this up so don't let Monster drive this one. :bolt:

lumberjim 05-17-2016 10:12 AM

TrueCar™ is a very good way to get a low price without spending days working dealers against each other. We hate it, but you have to do it or you won't get any leads. The trade is where we try to make up for it. You have no trade. You may not be able to get the 0% AND the rebate... but you might... Nissan has 0% AND $500 on some cars... or $500 AND $2000... You could find that out over the phone before you go.

There's hardly any mark up on new cars. Get GAP, but don't pay more than $500 for it. Extended warranty is your call, just be sure you get a fair price on that too. I'd try to stay under $400 per year of additional coverage as a rule. ( < $1200 for a 6 year)

Beest 05-17-2016 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lumberjim (Post 960352)
TrueCar™ is a very good way to get a low price without spending days working dealers against each other. We hate it, but you have to do it or you won't get any leads. The trade is where we try to make up for it. You have no trade. You may not be able to get the 0% AND the rebate... but you might... Nissan has 0% AND $500 on some cars... or $500 AND $2000... You could find that out over the phone before you go.

There's hardly any mark up on new cars. Get GAP, but don't pay more than $500 for it. Extended warranty is your call, just be sure you get a fair price on that too. I'd try to stay under $400 per year of additional coverage as a rule. ( < $1200 for a 6 year)

Thanks Jim, solid info, I've been in and done test drives and talked to the sales person I think the incentives are a lock.
I talked to my insurance guy about GAP, said much the same as you. Subaru tried to add in GAP at $800 I think, and extra coating paint protection, and extra upholstery protection, and prepaid servicing, no actual undercoating though.

True car has steered me to contact certain dealers rather than others, i have lot's of choice in a big metropolitan area, so I guess it is working for them in that way.

lumberjim 05-17-2016 12:16 PM

Good luck, and pics or it never happened!


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