Oh, good call mon.

Let's just get Tony a new car.

Good idea Cap, got you covered UT ;)

Sounds weather related my cruiser has been "burping" lately. Advanced Auto, Pep Boys and Auto Pro can read your codes for you free.

Just tell them NOT to erase any, in case they're needed later.

Distributor cap is OK.

Must be fuel then. I'm a lazy ass. If it were me, I'd pour some of that STP fuel stuff in there to take care of any water, and I'd make sure to keep the tank pretty full for a while to reduce the chance of condensation.

I wouldn't bother to get anything checked out unless it acted up again.

YMMV

It's running now, right? Don't fool with it. If it plays up again, then maybe get your mech-tech to diagnose it.

Well, all my discretionary charitable money is going to Haiti. If I got Tony a new car, he'd have to pick it up in Port-au-Prince.

If we send him to Haiti, he won't need a car. :haha:

No No No. This one. I don't think you'll need to worry about paying too much insurance, unless your neighbors store armor piercing ammunition.

And since the company is in the U.K., we can send Dana or SG to do the inspection.

How about an update, UT? Wassup?

Absolutely zero problems since that day. Did a treatment of dry gas.

Great! PMA at it's finest.

OK, the Cellar Car is experiencing intermittent rough engine and throwing the check engine light.

Some might remember that the check engine light was flashing earlier, and that I had to manage drilling out two plastic rivets in order to get to the computer to use the "back door" method to check the code. Before I could do that, the car repaired itself, which it annoyingly is failing to do this time. So I drilled out the rivets.

So the thing threw two codes, one "cylinder 4 misfire", one "multi cylinder misfire".

I looked up online and they said this is often a bad fuel injector, and how to test the fuel injectors. The resistance across each injector's connector spades should be 10-15 ohms.

It turns out that the front injectors are easy to get to and test, and the rear injectors require skill, patience and 3 hours to get to and test.

So I tested the front 3 (of a 6 cylinder engine, you see), and #2 and #4 showed 34 ohms while #6 showed 12 ohms.

So I might get two new fuel injectors and change out the known bad ones to see what that does. That's about $150 at Pep Boys. But it'll suck if one or more of the rear injectors have to be replaced too, and the only way I find out is by replacing the front bad ones and waiting for another check engine light.