I agree with mbpark ... take a look at what Grainger.com has.

I have. Thanks guys. I can find something like this but not for RJ45. Part of me is jonesing to just enlarge that opening and insert a RJ45 plug.

Mitch had a good idea going in through the bottom of the trailer, but that would require cutting through the insulation and vapor/insect barrier and I would prefer to avoid that if I can.

I know enough to choose the correct cable and boxes. I was worried about losing data over such a long cable, which goes outdoors and through several outdoor connections which might get corroded/intermittant from humidity or whatever. Some things are beyond my training.

Thanks for all the input. I will order a waterproof box, go through my wall and pay attention to strain relief and grommets.

I used to work as an installer with those boxes. Ahh what a wonderful trip down memory lane....


Pics Bri, we need pics!

L-com is one of so many souces. Go to electrical supply sources; not RV sources.

According to this, Maximum cat5 cable run is 100 meters or 328 feet.

http://www.cat-5-cable-company.com/f...t-5-cable.html

Yeah. I thought of that later. Most offices have longer runs of ethernet cable than I am planning with no problems.

Thanks TW, I will do that. I never buy from the RV dealer unless it is something I can't get anywhere else.

Now, next step. Are you using 100 Mb data? Or Gigabite? The difference is Cat 5 or Cat 6 cable. You should have asked and answered this queston. Since internet data is only around 0.01 Gb, then why do you need Gigabit data?

TV TW

TV as in radio waves in the air? TV as in 0.01 Gb digital signals from FIOS or a cable company? TV as in YouTube - again a ballpark 0.01 Gb internet signal? TV as in multiple closed circuit monitors on a 0.004 Gb interent cable?

TV only implies a digital internet signal; says almost nothing about desired bandwidth. How much bandwidth? Only that determines Cat5 or Cat6.

read the first post , he has a Roku box ,
I have the cheapest ( slowest ) package my ISP offers ,
But when i had to get a new wireless router i got a Giga bit router ,
i know it was Prolly a waste , but i didn't want a slow router being a bottle neck

I have done work like this for years. It's easy. I'd say make a surface mount block (I'd use a two jack box) sometimes called a biscuit block. These can be had for a couple bucks. I'd look for one that can be installed without tools. You take the wire, cut back the jacket, and fan out the individual conductors and nestle them into the color coordinated slots on the jack. Then you press down this little cap onto the backs of the wires and it pushes the wire down into a V with little blades that cut through the insulation to make the electrical contact. The cap clicks down and you're done.

Then I'd take that biscuit and mount it on the underside of your trailer whereever you can have easy access. /this is like installing an external jack/power outlet/ etc. Put it somewhere you can get to it, and that is protected from travel injuries. Any damn kind of weather box is fine.

The wires leading out of the jack/box will go through a hole in the floor like tw described and then up into your living space. Be generous with the cable, you can run it inside to whereever is another convenient space for your interior access. I would then terminate the inside end of the wires with another duplex rj45 surface mount block. The idea is that you'll have a "permanent" installation with female jacks on each end of a (pair of) cables that you never have to move ever. Cables that don't get moved dont' get worn or broken.

You'll then use regular patch cables with rj45 plugs on each end to go from jack to jack everywhere. From the house to the jack on the RV. From the interior jack to the interior switch. from the jack on the switch to the device. Don't make a cable that has a jack on one end and a plug on the other, you're begging for trouble there.

If you need help finding part numbers for these doodads, let me know.

BigV, you hit my plan fair and square. In the camper, the installation is indeed going to be permanent as well as at the house end. Proper cabling will be used. I am still trying to decide on routing for the buried cable as it crosses my sewer line if I run it the shortest route. I don't want to dig that up if I can avoid it.

pvc pipe

Crossing a sewer, that must be at least 2 feet deep, is irrelevant. A buried ethernet wire should be (according to code) at least 18 inches deep. Even at 6 inches or on top a sewer line would be no problem.

To be buried, (direct or inside PVC) means an ethernet cable must be exterior grade designed for burial.

Another problem exists. Cable must enter the building at the service entrance. Otherwise a nearby surge (ie lightning striking a nearby tree, the camper, stray car hitting a telephone pole, etc) may use that ethernet wire as a connection to earth destructively via routers, computers, and other interior electronics. This solution is inexpensive (especially compared to that exterior grade wire). But requires simple up front planning.

BTW, how did Cisco get started? All buildings in Stamford U were connected by putting ethernet cables 'inside' the sewers. Dirtiest parts of early internet were outside the cable.

Was that Al Gore's idea?