Unfortunately that easily doubles the price. Gouges that deep means (most likely) rotors must be replaced. Rotors cost more than brake pads.

Details on the car are also important. Some wheels cannot be removed from the hub without special equipment.

If the rotors are not gouged excessively, then rotors must be 'turned down' by a lathe. Some rotors are not to be removed and taken to a shop. Instead, a special tool is attached to the wheel to resurface a spinning rotor.

There really is no replacement for a shop manual or something equivalent. Disc brake designs are no longer standard. For example, if you improperly remove a Honda rotor, then bearing failure (and alignment problems) can result.

And finally, many brakes ride on two shafts. Some are inside sealed assemblies. Grease in those assemblies must be molybdenum type - high temperature type grease. Not expensive. But do not use standard wheel bearing grease on those moving brake parts.

Things would have been so much simpler ($hundreds simpler) if a driver had paid attention to a sound that was screaming "Fix Me!". Ditto for those who foolishly ignore the Check Engine light. Or that girl who never did an oil change in over five years. Ahh but that is how we learn - if we do not dump our mistakes on someone else.

:lol2:

da bearing packer!

oh and tw does make very good points. what is the beast you're working on anyway? year make and model...

year/make and model, is that like a/s/l? for auto mechanics?

It's a 2004 Hyundai Sonata.

i'm pressed for time to get ready for work. hope THIS helps! looks pretty simple.

this may help to: video

also depending on how the rotor is mounted, in my case with a nut and cotter pin, make sure that when replacing the nut you only put it on hand tight. you want the rotor to spin somewhat freely. good luck! off to the go kart killing fields now.

That tells me he doesn't need the packer, the disc is separate from the hub.

brake job is done. Thanks to everyone. My new neighbor who happens to love working on cars came over and we did the pads, the rotors will wait for spring. The two (as in R and L) lower pins that the caliper rides on were frozen and required a torch, some deep creep, and a BFH to loosen. When they came off it all went back together quickly.

Hopefully you measured the rotors. Determined if they can be turned down or must be replaced. If replaced, take time to find replacements in a junk yard, internet, etc.

Those gouges, as described, imply you will have to replace those pads when new rotors are installed.

What were the pads? $70?

Those rotors don't get turned, they're throw aways, cheaper than the pads.
The grooves in the old rotors will leave small ridges on the pads, which will wear down quickly on new rotors.

Ya cant turn certain type rotors , BMW etc,,,
A former boss found that out the Hard way

Replacement rotors for the 70's Corvettes came .015" over to true 'em, then use 'em and toss 'em.

man i hate using a torch but they're extremely useful. had to use one on my exhaust manifold nuts to free them so i could drop the exhaust to change my transmission. that hot ass flame in that tight area with all that other crap around? :eek: was afraid i would burn something else and cause more damage (spend more dough).

congrats on a job well done! hope you had a victory beer! :guinness:

$25/set